INDEX
Reading edition
Addison, scantiness of dress, 141
Angelico, Fra, painting by, at Florence, 101
Anglo-Saxon super-tunic, 76;
embroidery, 76;
Chronicle, treasures of King Malcolm of Scotland, 100
Barbers, introduction of in Rome, 239;
charter granted by Henry VIII., 247
Barber-Surgeons, 247-249
Beard, formality of Assyrian and Greek, 237;
dyeing and powdering, 238;
ceremonies and customs relating to, 238;
Peter Lombard's dislike of, 245;
edict by Henry I. for suppression of, 245;
various shapes of, 246;
vow of Henry VIII. relating to, 246
Beaumont and Fletcher, quotation from, 140
Bloet, Robert, Bishop of Lincoln, mantle presented by to Henry I., 90
Boadicea, tunic of, 68
Bodice, rigidity of, 144
Boots, shoes, and other foot coverings, 281-301
—— short, 288;
top, 288, 297, 298;
Wellington, 298
Buckles, 296
Buskins, 284-286
Byzantine women, dress of, 72
Calash, introduction of, 230
Cap, flat, of Tudor period, 218-220;
fool's, 209
Carlyle, T., 18, 26, 110
Charlemagne, dress of, 68;
letter to King John of Gascogny, 89;
mantle of, 90
Charles I., costume of, 126
Chaucer, quotations from, 52, 46, 78, 82, 98, 118, 242, 275
Chopine, 292
Chlamys, 85
Cloak, Spanish, 102;
Puritan, 102
Clothes, index as to character, 22;
climatic influence on, 22;
uses of, 20;
their symbolism, 26
Coif-caps, 258
Collar, Gurth's, 181
Collars and cuffs, 181-201
Cotton MS. caricature of winged devil, 42
"Couleur Isabella," 188
Coverley, Sir Roger de, remarks on hooped petticoat, 164
Cravat, origin of, 182;
general use of, 195;
art of tying the, 195-201
Crestine or net-caul, 211
Crinoletta, 160;
"disfigurans," 177;
echo of earlier prototype, 178
Crinoline, rise and fall of, 159-178;
invention of, 162
Crispin, St., 281
Cross gartering, 114, 286
Cut-purse, 78
Dickens, quotation from "Pickwick," 280
Doublet and hose, 111-132
Dowglas, monk of Glastonbury, extravagances of dress of reign of Edward III., 37
Dress:
should be one of the decorative arts, 53;
conditions of beautiful, 106;
floral patternings of, 146;
modes of, 1773, 148;
fashionable, 1782, 149
Elizabeth, Queen, short cloak, 101
Embroidery, a conspicuous element in Anglo-Saxon dress, 76
Empire gown, 152
Fabrics:
cloth of gold, 43;
silk, 44;
ciclatoun, cendal, taffetas, sarcenet, 46;
patternings of, 48;
satin, 46;
velvet, 46;
Sicilian brocades, 49-51
Farthingale, 162;
great wheel, 164
Fashion, genuine woman of, 153
French Revolution, influence on dress, 150;
disappearance of three-cornered hat, 227
Froissart, Harleian Library, caricature of pig walking upon stilts, 42
Garter, mantle of, 52, 94;
vestments of, 94;
jewel of, 95;
embroiderings of, 94;
as at present worn, 96
General survey, 19-57
Girdle, various kinds of, 77;
of Charlemagne, 77;
imperial girdle of Holy Roman Empire, 77;
of Henry VI., 77;
in brasses, 78
Gosson, Stephen, "Schoole of Abuse," 36
Gozzoli, Benozzo, frescoes at Pisa, 101
Greeks, costumes of modern, 78
Gresham, Sir Thomas, gift of silk stockings to Edward VI., 120
Hair, moustachios, and beard, 237-277
—— length of, privilege of Kings and Princes of the Franks, 240;
condemnation of by the priesthood, 240
Harold, King, banner under which he fought at Hastings, 52
Hat, chimney-pot, 25, 57, 205, 220, 222-224;
development of, 222-224;
centenary of modern, 222;
Greek broad-brimmed, 210;
cocked, 130;
Kevenhuller, 132, 227;
slouch, Stuart period, 226;
panama, 232;
bowler, 232
Hats, caps, and bonnets, 205-233
Headcoverings not a necessity, 205
Head-dresses, extravagances of, 260-271;
horned, 36, 41, 213-215;
heart-shaped, 215;
steeple, 215
Hennin, 216
Hood, Roman hooded cloak, 208;
variations of, 209
Hooped petticoat, 159-175;
inconveniences of, 170;
disappearance of, 170
Hose, tight-fitting, 114;
parti-coloured, 115;
Gallic, 120;
silk, 120;
Venetian, 120
Illuminated MSS., colouring of, 73
Jerkin, 117
Jewels, worn in hats, 224
Jonson, Ben, quotations from "Silent Woman," 38, 236, 268;
"Every Man out of his Humour," 122
Kirtle or petticoat, the, 135-156
Kirtle "Romaunt of the Rose," 73-136;
a development tunic, 135
La Tour Landry, Knight of, St. Bernard's admonition of his sister, 36;
extravagance in dress, 41;
horned head-dresses, 214;
painted faces, 276
Lorenzo, Fiorenzo di, paintings by, 99, 100, 113
Love locks, 250
Lydgate, monk of Bury, satires, 41
Lyly's "Euphues," 1580, fable of wind and sun, 22
Macaronies, 260
Malay Peninsula, clothing of aborigines, 20
Mantle, the, 83-106;
of Elijah, 83;
St. Martin, 84;
Raleigh, 84;
Archdruid's, 88;
coronation mantle of Holy Roman Empire, 88;
Frankish, 89;
colour of Charlemagne's, 90;
Edward the Confessor's, 90;
Norman period, 90;
Queen Matilda's, 91;
of the Order of the Garter, 94
Mary, Queen, description of portrait of, 138
Merry Monarch, beauties of the Court of, 141
Merveilleuses, 150
Moustachios, Charles I., third Empire, a reigning monarch, 272
Muffs, 104
Nazarite law, 240-244
Ondina or waved Jupons, advertisement in Illustrated London News, 1863, 175
Otaheite, festal dress, 166
Painted faces, 250-252
Paris, Matthew, description of marriage of Alexander III. of Scotland, 96
Pattens, 290-292
Pegtops, 54;
Dundreary's, 275
Peplum of the Greeks, 85, 88
Pepys, references to dress, 102-104, 142-144, 255
Periwig, first appearance of in history, 255;
proportions of, during the reign of Charles II., 255
Petticoat breeches, 128-130
—— inflation, era of, 138
Picadil, 189-192
Piccadilly, 190;
fringe, 275
Piers Plowman, description of Meed (Bribery), 212
Pilche, 98-100
Pole, Edmund de la, letter to, 46
Pot-hat, examples of in past art, 25
Puffing, 117
Punch, Mr., fragments of a love-song, 74;
satire of crinoline, 172-176;
crinoletta, 176;
short side-whiskers, 276;
warning to ladies riding in crinolines, 170
"Roman de la Rose," satire on dress, 38;
dress of Mirth, 53;
horned head-dresses, 213
Roxburghe ballads, 40, 252, 255, 283
Ruff, invention of, 183;
extravagances of, 187;
various kinds of, 192;
disappearance of, 194
Ruffle, 183-184
St. Bernard, admonition of his sister, 36
Salisbury, Lord, remarks on modern costume, 56
Sandal, Greek, 283;
of Italian peasantry, 286;
modern, 301
Shoe roses, 296
Shoes, early British, 286;
Anglo-Saxon, 288;
pointed toed, 289-291;
broad toed, 294-296
Slashings, 117-118
Sleeves, serrated, 72;
development of, 112-113;
tight, 112;
cut work of, 112;
"pokys," 112
"Spencer" jacket, 137
Starching, 184
Stow, reference to ruffs, 187
Strutt, 73
Stubbes, "Anatomy of Abuses," feminine habit of aping masculine dress, 42;
peascod bellied doublets, 124;
ruffs, 180, 186, 188;
praise of barbers, 250;
moustachios, 272
Sumptuary laws, principal Acts, 28-36, 290
Surcoat, Anglo-Saxon period, 76;
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 74
Tailor and Cutter, hints of impending changes in men's attire, 56
Tailors, Latin song upon the, 92
"Tale of Beryn," the, quotation from, 89
Toga, plan of, 86;
dimensions of, 88
Trouser stretcher, 56
Trousers, their antiquity, 25;
the apparent eternity of, 54;
development of, 54;
inconveniences of, 56;
Frankish, 69;
Norman, 114
Trunk hose, bombasting of, 118, 122;
of period of James I., 126
Tudor period, magnificence of dress of, 140
Tunic, the, 61-80;
primitive form of, 61;
Egyptian, 63;
Greek, 64;
child's tunic, Egyptian, 64;
plan of, 66;
super-tunic, 66;
Lacedemonian girls', 67;
Charlemagne's, 69;
military, 77
Turban, 209
Uses of clothing, the, 20-24
Veddas of Ceylon, 20
Weaving, silk, in France and England, 52
Whisk, 188-189
Whiskers, Dundreary and mutton chop, 274;
short side, 276
Wigs, Egyptian, 254;
first appearance in England, 255;
cost of when first worn, 256;
different shapes of, 256;
Lord Ellenborough's, 258
William III., long-skirted coats, 104
Wimple, 183, 211
UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, WOKING AND LONDON
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