CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

The Object of the Expedition

PAGE

The importance of the scientific exploration of Central Asia—The region which the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition investigated—Personnel of the Expedition—Equipment—Applicants for positions upon the Expedition

1-6

CHAPTER II

China in Turmoil

Yuan Shi-kai—Plot to become emperor of China—The Rebellion—Our arrival in Peking—Passports for Fukien Province—Admiral von Hintze, the German Minister—En route to Shanghai—Death of Yuan Shi-kai

7-14

CHAPTER III

Up the Min River

Y. B. A.

Arrival at Foochow—Foochow—We leave for Yen-ping—The Min River—Our first night in a sampan—Miss Mabel Hartford—Brigands at Yuchi—Yen-ping—Trapping at Yen-ping

15-25

CHAPTER IV

A Bat Cave in the Big Ravine

The Temple in the Big Ravine—Hunting serow—A bat apartment house

26-81

CHAPTER V

The Yen-ping Rebellion

A message from Mr. Caldwell—Refugees from Yen-ping—Situation in the city—Fighting on Monday morning—Wounded men at the hospital—We do Red Cross work—More fighting—A Chinese puzzle—The missionaries save the city—The narrow escape of a young Chinese—The mission cook—Return to Foochow

82-48

CHAPTER VI

Hunting the Great Invisible

Tiger lairs—Mr. Caldwell's method of hunting—His first tiger—Habits of tigers—Experiences with the Great Invisible—Killing a man-eater—Chinese superstitions—Hunting in the lair

44-58

CHAPTER VII

The Blue Tiger

Arriving at Lung-tao—The blue tiger—Mr. Caldwell's first view of the beast—The lair in the Long Ravine—Bad luck with the tiger—A meeting in the dark—Ling-suik monastery—Life at the temple—Fukien Province as a collecting ground

54-66

CHAPTER VIII

The Women of China

Y. B. A.

Schools for girls—Position of women—The Confucian rules—Woman's life in the home—Foot binding—Early marriage—A Chinese wedding

67-73

CHAPTER IX

Voyaging to Yün-nan

Outfitting in Hongkong—Food—Guns—Cameras—En route to Tonking—The Island of Hainan—We engage a cook at Paik-hoi—Arrival in Haiphong—Loss of our Ammunition—Hanoi—The railroad to Yün-nan Fu—Yün-nan—The Chinese Foreign Office endorses our plans

74-83

CHAPTER X

On the Road to Ta-li Fu

Oar caravan—The Yün-nan pack saddle—Temple camps—Chinese mafus—Roads—Country—Ignorance of a Chinese scholar—New mammals—Village life—Opium growing—An opium scandal—Goitre—The Chinese "Mountain schooner"—Horses—Miss Morgan—Brigands—Our guard of soldiers

84-98

CHAPTER XI

Ta-li Fu

Hsia-kuan—Summer temperature—Lake—Graves—Pagodas—Mr. H. G. Evans—Foreigners of Ta-li Fu—Chinese mandarins—Mammals at Ta-li—Caravan horses and mules—The cook becomes ill

99-106

CHAPTER XII

Li-chiang, and the "Temple of the Flowers"

Traveling to Li-chiang—Our entrance into the city—The surprise of the foreigners—The temple—Excellent collecting—Small mammals—The Moso natives—Customs—The Snow Mountain—Baron Haendel-Mazzetti

107-113

CHAPTER XIII

Camping in the Clouds

Moso hunters—Primitive guns—Crossbows and poisoned arrows—Dogs—porcupine—New mammals—We find a new camp on the mountain

114-119

CHAPTER XIV

The First Goral

Killed near camp—A sacrifice to the God of the Hunt—Small mammals—The second goral

120-125

CHAPTER XV

More Gorals

Gorals almost invisible—Heller shoots a kid—Collecting material for a Museum group—A splendid hunt—Two gorals—A crested muntjac

126-188

CHAPTER XVI

The Snow Mountain Temple

The first illness in camp—Serow—Death of the leading dog—Rain—Two more serows—Lolos—Non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan

184-189

CHAPTER XVII

Gorals and Serows

Relationship—Appearance of the serow—Habits—Gorals

140-148

CHAPTER XVIII

The "White Water"

Y. B. A.

Our new camp—serow—We go to Li-chiang—A burial ceremony—Ancestor worship

140-156

CHAPTER XIX

Across the Yangtze Gorge

Traveling to the river—Inaccuracy of the Chinese—First view of the gorge—The Taku ferry—Cares

157-163

CHAPTER XX

Through Unmapped Country

Along the rim of the gorge—A beautiful camp at Habala—New mammals—Photographic work—Phete village—Stupid inhabitants—Strange natives—The "Windy Camp"—Hotenfa

164-171

CHAPTER XXI

Traveling Toward Tibet

A hard climb—Our highest camp—A Lolo village—Thanksgiving with the Lolos

172-177

CHAPTER XXII

Stalking Tibetans with a Camera

Y. B. A.

Caravans—Tibetans—Dress—Appearance—Photographing frightened natives—Reason for suspicion

178-181

CHAPTER XXIII

Westward to the Mekong River

Snow—Photographing natives—The Snow Mountain again—The Shih-ku ferry—Cranes—"Brahminy ducks"—A well-deserved beating—Chinese soldiers

182-189

CHAPTER XXIV

Down the Mekong Valley

Arrival at Wei-hsi—The Mekong River—Lutzu natives—Difficulties in the valley—An unexpected goral—Christmas—The salt wells—A snow covered pass—Duck shooting—Return to Ta-li Fu

190-201

CHAPTER XXV

Missionaries We Have Known

Our observations on work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan Provinces—Mode of living—Servants—Voluntary exile—Medical missionaries—A missionary's experience with the brigands at Yuchi

202-211

CHAPTER XXVI

Chinese New Year at Yung-chang

Y. B. A.

Traveling to Yung-chang—New Year's customs—Inhabitants of the city—Foot-binding—Caves—Water buffaloes—Chinese cow-caravans—Yung-chang mentioned by Marco Polo

212-222

CHAPTER XXVII

Traveling Toward the Tropics

Shih-tien plain—Curious inhabitants of the city—A tropical valley at Ma-po-lo—"A little more far"—A splendid camp—Many new mammals—Preparing specimens Sambur—Trapping

223-232

CHAPTER XXVIII

Meng-ting: a Village of Many Tongues

The first Shan Village—Priscilla and John Alden—Meng-ting—The Shan mandarin—Young priests—The market—Photographing under difficulties—Suppression of opium growing

233-343

CHAPTER XXIX

Camping on the Nam-ting River

A beautiful camp—The "Dying Rabbit"—Sambur hunting—Jungle fowl—Civets—Pole cats and other animals

244-251

CHAPTER XXX

Monkey Hunting

Strange calls in the jangle—Our first gibbons—Relationship and habits—Langurs and baboons—A night in the jungle

252-259

CHAPTER XXXI

The Shans of the Burma Border

An unfriendly chief—Honest natives—Houses at Nam-ka—Tattooing—Shan tribe—Dress

260-263

CHAPTER XXXII

Prisoners of War in Burma

Y. B. A.

The mythical Ma-li-ling—Across the frontier into Burma—The mafus rebel—Ma-li-pa—Captain Clive—Guarding the border—Life at Ma-li-pa

264-272

CHAPTER XXXIII

Hunting Peacocks on the Salween River

The Valley at Changlung—The ferry—Peacocks—The stalker stalked—Habits of peafowls

273-280

CHAPTER XXXIV

The Gibbons of Ho-mu-shu

Climbing out of the Salween Valley—A Shan Village—Ho-mu-shu—Camping on a mountain pass—Gibbons—An exciting hunt and a narrow escape—Habits of the "hoolock"

281-290

CHAPTER XXXV

Teng-yueh: a Link with Civilization

Tai-ping-pu—Flying squirrels—Lisos—A bat cave—Mail—Teng-yueh—Mr. Ralph Grierson—Tibetan bear cubs

291-297

CHAPTER XXXVI

A Big Game Paradise

Gorals at Hui-yao—Deer—Splendid hunts

298-304

CHAPTER XXXVII

Serow and Sambur

Monkeys at Hai-yao—Muntjacs—A new serow—We move camp to Wa-tien—A fine sambur

305-314

CHAPTER XXXVIII

Last Days in China

Return to Teng-yueh—Packing the specimens—Results of the Expedition—On the road to Bhamo—The chair coolies—Burma vs. China—In civilisation again—Farewell to the Orient

315-322