CAPTURE OF ADEN,

19th January 1839.

At the entrance of the Red Sea, on the coast of Asia, and the southernmost point of Arabia Felix, is situated the town of Aden. It lies eastward of the Straits of Babel Mandel, and immediately opposite the coast of Berbera, in Africa, from which it is divided by the Sea of Aden.

Cape Aden is a high, rocky promontory, consisting of several peaks, the most elevated of which is 1,776 feet above the level of the sea. They have ruined forts and watch-towers on their summits, which give them the appearance of turrets. From a distance this lofty headland looks like an island, and its position is in a degree similar to that of Gibraltar, being connected with the mainland by a piece of low ground, which in some places is a swamp. Its aspect is grand and picturesque, though extremely barren and wild, and utterly destitute of vegetation.

The town lies on the east side of this cape, about five miles from the landing-place and anchorage, and is situated in a sort of amphitheatre, surrounded on three sides by lofty hills, and open to the sea on the fourth. To the west of the promontory is a fine bay with a sandy beach, where good water is to be procured.

On the western side is a range of rocks extending out nearly as far south as the Hill of Aden itself. The tops of these are singularly broken, and rise into Gothic spires in several parts. Two of them have got the name of the Ass's Ears. At a short distance from the Rock of Aden is a small island, formerly covered with fortifications like the hill-forts in India. Strong fortifications defend the anchorage, and command the entrance of the bay, which is quite land-locked. The road to the town follows the sea-shore for about two miles, with high crags on one side, and rocks rising out of the water on the other. An ascent then leads to an aperture in the hills, called the Pass, which is narrow and winding, and enclosed on either side by rocks; and at length the town is approached by a steep declivity.

The commanding position of Aden rendered it a place of great importance when the chief communication between Europe and India was by the way of the Red Sea, before the discovery of the passage round the Cape.

For centuries the Red Sea passage was neglected, till lately resumed under the name of the Overland Route. During the reign of Constantine, Aden was an opulent city, and formed one of the great emporia of the commerce of the East. As a trading port it possesses great advantages over Mocha, as its harbours may be entered or quitted at any period of the year: the coffee districts are nearer to it than to Mocha; many large towns in Yemen are within an easy journey of it; the mountains to the north produce gum, frankincense, and coffee; and drugs, gums, perfumes, spices, honey, and wax are collected in the neighbourhood.

As, also, it is directly north of Berbera, vessels, during the north-east monsoon, can reach it with the produce of Africa in 24 hours, and return with equal speed, with English and Indian manufactures. British goods can thus be introduced into Africa in exchange for coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, elephants' teeth, gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c.

Arabs form the largest number of the population of Aden; though Jews, Banians from Cutch, and Soomalies, natives of Berbera, who are Mahometans, are found among them.

Aden, after remaining for many centuries in the power of the Arabs, was, in 1539, seized by the Turks, under Sulimaun Pasha.

The Portuguese, in 1513, were twice defeated in attempts to capture it, at which time the fortifications were of considerable strength. As the power of the Turks declined, the Arabs threw off their yoke, and placed it under the ride of a native prince, under the title of the Sultan of Aden.

It had by this time sadly declined; its trade had departed, the number of its inhabitants had diminished, and its chief buildings were little better than heaps of ruins, though some of its fortifications were still formidable.

Successive Sultans of Aden had been very friendly with the English. In 1838 Aden was given up to the British Government by treaty, by the then Sultan. Captain Haines, of the Indian Navy, was sent there as political agent, to see the articles of the treaty faithfully carried out. The Sultan, however, had in the meantime changed his mind, and refused to fulfil his agreement.

Now, we have seen that the possession of the place was very important to the political and commercial interests of Great Britain, and it therefore became necessary to compel the Arab chief to keep to the terms of the treaty he had entered into.

To effect this object, Rear-Admiral Sir Frederick Maitland, who was at that time Commander-in-Chief on the East India Station, despatched from the squadron Her Majesty's ships 'Volage,' Captain H. Smith, who commanded the expedition, and the 'Cruiser,' accompanied by the 'Coote' corvette, and the 'Mahe' schooner, of the Indian Navy, while a body of troops were sent in transports under the command of Major Baillie.

The 'Volage' anchored on the 16th of January, and the same evening Captain Smith received a letter from Captain Haines, the political agent, informing him that all negotiation on his part had failed, and that hostilities must forthwith commence. On this he communicated with Major Baillie, the commander of the troops, and they resolved to lose no time in attacking the place. The town was defended by about 1,000 Arabs, armed with matchlocks, and 24 brass and iron guns placed in various batteries, some of the guns being mounted on a strong tower in the island of Seerah, and others in a lower battery, while a brass 68-pounder commanded the chief landing-place.

From the attitude assumed by the Sultan and his Arab followers, they appeared resolved to defend the town with determined courage and resolution, and to give occasion for some severe fighting before they, were likely to yield.

The 17th was spent in drawing up the plan of the attack, and in making the necessary preparations, and Captain Haines having come off, and acting as pilot, the 'Volage' weighed with the rest of the squadron to proceed to the front of the town, the 'Cruiser' towing a mortar-boat.

On standing in towards the island of Seerah, a fire was opened on the 'Volage' with musketry and several large guns, when she fired in return for a short time, but the 'Coote' corvette and transports not having come up, she hauled off and anchored for the night.

On the morning of the 19th, the whole force having arrived, Captain Smith made the signal to prepare to attack, and the troops to be held in readiness for landing in two divisions. At half-past nine o'clock, the 'Volage' anchored with a spring on her bower cable, in four fathoms water, at about 300 yards distance from the lower battery on the island of Seerah; at the same time the 'Mahe' took up her position to the southward of the island. On standing in, the enemy opened a fire of great guns and musketry on the ships, but from the 'Volage' being laid so close to the shore, the guns on the height were rendered useless, their shot passing over her. At ten o'clock, the 'Cruiser' anchored, and by her fire destroyed the flank of the battery. During this period a heavy firing was kept up from the shore, but in a short time two of the guns in the lower battery were dismounted, and most of the people were driven from the remainder, they however took shelter behind the ruins of the battery, and kept up an incessant fire of musketry on the ships, and although the lower battery was almost knocked to pieces, the assailants had great difficulty in dislodging them.

At this period Captain Smith directed the fire to be opened on the round towers and batteries on the heights, which were filled with men armed with matchlocks, and in the course of one hour, this tower which was eighty feet high, and strongly built, was a mass of ruins.

At eleven o'clock the 'Coote' anchored, with the second division of the troops, to the southward of the island, and opened her fire upon the town. The fire not having yet ceased from the tower battery, the 'Mahe' schooner was directed to proceed to the end of it, and endeavour to drive out the men from behind it by musketry. This service was performed by her commander, Lieutenant Daniels, in a most gallant manner; but during the action, Mr. Nesbitt, a midshipman on board, was severely wounded.

The firing having now almost totally ceased, Captain Smith gave directions for the boats of both divisions to land. Lieutenant Dobree, who had charge of the first division, Mr. Rundle, mate, and a quarter-master of the 'Volage' were the first on shore, and made for the brass 68-pounder, which had several times been fired at the ship. On their way, a matchlock was discharged at the quarter-master by a man behind the gun. The Arab was immediately cut down by him, and the first British flag was planted by Mr. Rundle. So completely were the enemy driven from all points (with the exception of the island) by the fire of the ships, that the whole of the troops landed with the loss only of two men killed and three wounded.

A partial firing was still kept up from the island, when Captain Smith directed Lieutenant Dobree, who had just returned, and two mates, with a party of seamen, and Lieutenant Ayles, with the marines, amounting altogether to fifty, to land and take possession of it. This was gallantly accomplished, the party ascending the height, spiking and dismounting the guns, taking the flag which had been flying from the tower, and making prisoners of 139 armed Arabs, who were conducted from the island to the mainland by the party, and given over into the charge of Major Osborne.

While the military were attempting to disarm the prisoners, they made a sudden and most formidable resistance with their daggers: and before they were overcome, several men were lost on both sides. All opposition having at length ceased, Aden was taken possession of by the British forces. Mr. Nesbitt was the only person hurt on board the squadron, and of the military, sixteen were killed and wounded.

The Arabs appeared to have had more confidence in their matchlocks than in their great guns, which they served badly and fired irregularly. Had it not been, however, for the total destruction of their defences by the squadron, the troops would probably not have accomplished their landing without a very severe loss. Of the defenders, a great proportion were killed and wounded. Twenty-five dead bodies were found on the island of Seerah alone, several in the town, and twenty-five were lying wounded in the Mosque, among whom was the Sultan's nephew, who defended the island. Thirty-three brass and iron guns of various sizes were captured, and a large quantity of ammunition and matchlocks. Among the guns were three large brass Turkish pieces, which, at the desire of the victors, were sent to be presented to Her Majesty, as the first warlike trophy taken during her reign. Several attempts have since been made by the Arabs to regain Aden, but without success; though, in consequence of their hostility, the garrison are compelled to be ever vigilant, and the English cannot, without great risk, visit the interior of the country.

The 'Volage' having performed this duty, returned to the East Indies, and we hear of her soon afterwards in the China seas, engaged in a severe action with a squadron of Chinese war-junks; an account of which will be given when we come to narrate the war in China.