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Beeton's Book of Needlework

BERLIN WORK

Reading edition

[559]

BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS

Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or [560] sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.

Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.

The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.

We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become Berlin workers.

[561]

Common Cross Stitch.
Common Cross Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.

Long Cross Stitch.
Long Cross Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.

[562]

Long Cross Stitch.
Long Cross Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the next.

Slanting Cross Stitch.
Slanting Cross Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.

[563]

Damask Stitch.
Damask Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.

Rep Stitch.
Rep Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on illustration.

[564]

Leviathan Stitch.
Leviathan Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half of the straight cross stitch.

Leviathan Stitch.
Leviathan Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.

[565]

Double Leviathan Stitch.
Double Leviathan Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.

Tent Stitch.
Tent Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.

[566]

Slanting Gobelin Stitch.
Slanting Gobelin Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.

Straight Gobelin Stitch.
Straight Gobelin Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.

[567]

ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if preferred.

Raised or Velvet Stitch.
Raised or Velvet Stitch.

[568]

Plaited Stitch.
Plaited Stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from illustration.

[569]

Plush Stitch.
Plush Stitch.

ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with a back stitch.

-Berlin Work Border.
-Berlin Work Border.

The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The [570] squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot.

No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, [571] and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.

Berlin Work Border.
Berlin Work Border.
Berlin Work Border.
Berlin Work Border.

In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon personal taste.

[572]

[573]

PLATES

[574]

[575]

TATTED ANTIMACASSAR (see page 80.)

TATTED ANTIMACASSAR
TATTED ANTIMACASSAR

[576]

[577]

COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ (213, 214 and 215) (See page 184.)

COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ
COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ

[578]

KNITTED TABLE COVER (see page 347.)

KNITTED TABLE COVER
KNITTED TABLE COVER

[579]

KNITTED D'OYLEY (see page 352.)

KNITTED D'OYLEY
KNITTED D'OYLEY

[580]

PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART (see page 549)

PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART
PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART

[581]

INDEX.

Acacia Spray in embroidery, 162.

Antimacassar, crochet 276.

Antimacassar in tatting 65.

Antimacassar, knitted 318 to320.

Appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in 213 to 215.

Arm-chair, covered with crochet 254.

Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for 255, 256.

BABY'S BOOT, knitted 326.

Bag, crochet silk, over rings 245.

Banner screen in guipure d'art 573, 574

BARS, POINT LACE.

D'Alençon 463

Point d'Angleterre 467

Point de Venise, edged 468

Point de Venise, dotted 469

Raleigh 471, 472

Sorrento 461462

Sorrento, dotted 469

Venetian, plain 464, 465, 466

Basket, small, crochet 239

Basket, crochet 272

Basket, crochet 273

Basket, embroidered in chenille 134

Bedford plaited lace (1851) 423

Bed-quilt, knitted border for 327

BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559.

Berlin work, borders i 592 to 594

BERLIN STITCHES.

Common cross stitch 577

Damask stitch 581

Leviathan stitch 583, 584

Leviathan double stitch 585

Long cross stitch 578, 579

Plaited stitch 590

Plush stitch 591

Raised or velvet stitch 589

Rep stitch 582

Slanting cross stitch 580

Slanting Gobelin stitch 587

Straight Gobelin stitch 588

Tent stitch 586

(Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851) 422

Bodice, knitted 324, 325

Boot, baby's, knitted 326

Borders, crochet 252, 253

Border, embroidered 150

Border for a reading-desk in embroidery 204

Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art 561

Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art 564, 565

Borders, guipure d'art 525, 553, 557

Border, guipure d'art 575

Border in crochet and tatting 52

Border in Oriental embroidery 179

Border in tatting and crochet 6

Border in tatting and crochet 15

Border in tatting and crochet 22

Border in tatting and lace stitch 44

Border in tatting, with beads 13

Border in tatting, with crochet edging 5

Border, knitted 321

Border, tatting 47

Borders, two crochet 274, 275

Border, with beads, tatted 13

Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag 169

Braces, embroidered 202

Braces, knitted 338

Brioche cushion in crochet, 249

Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner 212

[582]

CAP, border for, in tatting 38

Cap crown in tatting 37

Cap in tatting 38, 39

Chenille, basket embroidered in 134

Cigar-case, embroidered 190

Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting 21

Circle in tatting 12

Circle in tatting 21

Circle in tatting 57

Collar in tatting 56

Collar in tatting and darned netting 28

Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting 49

Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting 54

Collar, pine pattern, in tatting 1

Collar, tatted 55

Collar, trimming for, in tatting 49

Collar, trimming for, in tatting 54

Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for 336

Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery 141

Corner borders in guipure d'art 524, 525

Corner borders in guipure d'art 542, 543

Corner borders in guipure d'art 564, 565

Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery 149

Corner in embroidery 151

Corner in embroidery 152

Cotton, tatting, p. 82

Couvrette, centre of a tatted 25

Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet 250

Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet 257

Couvrette in appliqué, embroidery 147

Couvrette in crochet 243

Couvrette in tatting 25

Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery 138

Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for 184

Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for 185

Cravat in tatting 50

Cravat end in embroidery 136

Cravat end in embroidery 153

Cravat end in raised embroidery 156

Cravat end in tatting 60

Cravat end in tatting 62

Cravat end in tatting and darned netting 64

Cravat end, oval, in tatting 51

Cravat in muslin and tatting 50

Cravat, muslin, embroidered 153

Crochet, antimacassar in 276

Crochet, arm-chair covered with 254

Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for 255, 256

Crochet bag, silk, over rings 245

Crochet basket, small 239

Crochet basket 272

Crochet basket 273

Crochet borders 252, 253

Crochet borders, two 274, 275

Crochet, brioche cushion 249

Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair 257

Crochet, couvrette in 240

Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in 250

Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace

No. 1262

No. 2 263

No. 3 264

No. 4 265

No. 5 266

No. 6 267

No. 7 268

No. 8 269

No. 9 270

No. 10 271

Crochet garter 285

Crochet, insertion 258

Crochet, insertion 259

Crochet, insertion 260

Crochet, insertion 277

Crochet, insertion 283

Crochet, insertion 284

CROTCHET INSTRUCTIONS

Crotchet hook,Page 185.

Foundation chain, double, 217.

Foundation chain, plain, 216.

Foundation chain, purl, 218.

Spots, raised, 232.

Spots, hollow, 233.

Spots, open work, 234.

Crotchet, lace, 251.

Crotchet, lace, 261.

Crotchet, purse in, over rings, 248.

Crotchet rosettes, 280, 281.

Crotchet sovereign purse, 246.

Crotchet, star in, 244.

Crotchet, stars in, 247. CROCHET STITCHES

Cross stitch 224

Cross treble stitch 229, 230, 231

Double long treble stitch 228

Double stitch 220, 221

Long double stitch 225

Long treble stitch 227

Purl stitch 236

Purl stitch 237

Purl stitch 238

Raised treble stitch 235

Raised ribbed stitch 222

Raised slanting stitch 223

Slip stitch 219

Treble stitch 226

Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise 286

Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon 282

Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in 278, 279

Crochet work, work-basket in straw and 272, 273

Curtains, knitted pattern for 339

Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette 250

Dalecarlian lace 419

Diamond in tatting 20

Diamond in tatting 36

Diamond in tatting 53

Diamond in tatting 59

Diamond netting 306

Diamond tatting for collars, &c. 20

D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace

No. 1262

No. 2 263

No. 3 264

No. 4 265

No. 5 266

No. 6 267

No. 7 268

No. 8 269

No. 9 270

No. 10 271

D'Oyley, knitted 337

EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.

Antwerp 479

Point d'Angleterre 477

Point de Bruxelles 474

Point d'Espagne 478

Point de Venise 476

Sorrento 475

Edging, embroidered 178

Embroidered border 204

Embroidered border 150

Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag 169

Embroidered braces 202

Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for 201

Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for 203

Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner 212

Embroidered cigar-case 190

Embroidered edging 178

Embroidered handkerchief 197

Embroidered hanging letter-case 176

Embroidered in chenille, basket 134

Embroidered key-bag 182

Embroidered key-bag 183

Embroidered knife-basket 159

Embroidered knife-basket 160

Embroidered lace insertion 207

Embroidered lady's purse 157

Embroidered letter-case, pattern for 177

Embroidered linen collar 193

Embroidered linen collar 194

Embroidered needle-book, pattern for 166

Embroidered needle-book, pattern for 167

Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for 187

Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas 208

Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for 209

Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock 195, 196

Embroidery, acacia spray in 162

Embroidery and stitching, insertion in 132

Embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in 147

Embroidery border for a reading-desk 204

Embroidery, border in Oriental 179

Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in 141

Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe 149

Embroidery, corner in 151

Embroidery, corner in 152

Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in 138

Embroidery, cravat end in 136

Embroidery, cravat end in 153

Embroidery, cravat end in raised 156

Embroidery, fuchsia spray in 161

Embroidery, glove-box in 174

Embroidery, glove-box in 175

Embroidery, handkerchief border in 197

Embroidery, handkerchief in 140

Embroidery, insertion in 131

Embroidery, insertion in 142

Embroidery, insertion in 145

Embroidery, insertion in 146

Embroidery, insertion in 155

Embroidery, insertion in 165

Embroidery, insertion in 188

Embroidery, insertion in 189

Embroidery, insertion in 192

EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83.

Bead partly covered 103

Blossom in satin stitch 101, 102

Bluebell 113

Bluebell, inner part 114

Bluebell, part of 116

Borders 118, 119

Ear of corn 112

Flower 115

Flower in satin stitch 107

Flower appliquéd on net 117

Heartsease 110

Initials 123 to 130

Insertions 120 to 122

Leaf 94

Leaf in raised satin stitch 90, 91

Leaf, raised 92, 93

Leaf, raised 95

Leaf, half of 99

Leaf, centre of 100

Raised embroidered leaf 98

Raised flower 111

Raised leaf 96

Raised leaf 97

Raised satin stitch leaf 90, 91

Rose in satin stitch 108

Rose, petal for 109

Star 106

Star in point de reprise 105

Star in satin stitch 104

STITCH, EMBROIDERY.

Stitch, back 70

Stitch, button and eyelet holes 86, 87

Stitch, button-hole scallop 82 to 85

Stitch, double overcast 67

Stitch, knotted 73, 74, 75

Stitch, ladder 80, 81

Stitch, overcast 68

Stitch, point croisé 71, 72

Stitch, point de minute 79

Stitch, point de plume 78

Stitch, satin, raised76, 77

Stitch, scallop 66

Stitch, shaded button-hole 88, 89

Stitch, slanting overcast 69

Embroidery, medallion for a purse in 198

Embroidery, medallion for a purse in 199

Embroidery, medallion in point Russe 210

Embroidery, medallion in point Russc 211

EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.

Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch 353

Embroidery, alphabet in floral 361

Embroidery, alphabet in florid style 356

Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots 352

Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or 357

Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch 359

Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch 351

Embroidery, alphabet scalloped 355

Embroidery, alphabet, small 354

Embroidery, initials in 366 to 417

Embroidery, monograms in 366 to 417

Embroidery, names in 362 to 418

Embroidery, sampler in 360

Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals 349

Embroidery, star alphabet, small 350

Embroidery, white, alphabet in 358

Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c, in 135

Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in 137

Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in 184

Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in 185

Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in 133

Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in 139

Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in 143, 144

Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size) 196

Embroidery, penwiper in 186 187

Embroidery, rose-leaf in 173

Embroidery, sandwich-case in 154

Embroidery stars 137, 143, 144

Embroidery stars 180, 181

Embroidery, table-napkin ring in 158

Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in 163

Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in 164

Embroidery, travelling-bag in 168

Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices170

Embroidery, Venetian border in 206

Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in 205

Embroidery, waste-paper basket in 191

Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in 171, 172, 173

Embroidery, wing of bird 172

Embroidery, work-bag in 200

Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat148

English netting 308

Fichu, netted 315, 316

Flower in guipure d'art 544

Frame for guipure d'art 503

Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper 187

Fuchsia spray in embroidery 161

Garter, crochet 285

Glove-box in embroidery 174

Glove-box in embroidery 175

Gauge, knitting287

Guipure d'art

Guipure d'art, banner-screen in 573, 574

Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in 561

Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner 565

Guipure d'art, borders in 552557

Guipure d'art, border in 575

Guipure d'art, corner borders in 524, 525

Guipure d'art, corner borders in 542, 543

Guipure d'art, corner borders in 564, 565

Guipure d'art, flower in 544

Guipure d'art, frame for 503

Guipure d'art, insertion in 521

Guipure d'art, insertion in 526

Guipure d'art, insertion in 528

Guipure d'art, insertion in 539

Guipure d'art, insertion in 548

Guipure d'art, insertion in 558

Gaipure d'art, insertion in 559

Guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in 558 to 563

Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503.

Guipure d'art jewel-case cover 567

Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in 566

Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in 537

Guipure d'art, lace border in 522

Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in 568

Guipure d'art, quarter square in 530

Guipure d'art, rosettes in 529

Guipure d'art, rosettes in 562562563

Guipure d'art stitches.

Grounding 533 to 536 Point de Bruxelles 509, 510 Point d'esprit 504. Point de feston 506 Point de reprise 507507508 Point de toile 505 Stars 516 to 520 Wheels 511 to 515

Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in 569

Guipure d'art, small squares 527.

Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar 550, 551

Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in 523

Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses 546, 547

Guipure d'art, square in 531

Guipure d'art, square in 532

Guipure d'art, square in 556

Guipure d'art, squares in 570, 576

Guipure d'art, squares in 533 to 536

Guipure d'art, squares in 538, 538A

Guipure d'art, squares in 554, 554 (

Guipure d'art), square in reticella work 540 (

Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged 541

Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with 545

Guipure d'art, work-case in 571, 572

Handkerchief border in embroidery 197

Handkerchief in embroidery 140

Hanging letter-case embroidered 176

Honiton guipure lace 424

Insertion, crochet 258

Insertion, crochet 259

Insertion, crochet 260

Insertion, crochet 277

Insertion, crochet 283

Insertion, crochet A href="#image_284">284

Insertion in embroidery 131

Insertion in embroidery 142

Insertion in embroidery 145

Insertion in embroidery 146

Insertion in embroidery 155

Insertion in embroidery 165

Insertion in embroidery 188

Insertion in embroidery 189

Insertion in embroidery 192

Insertion in embroidery and stitching 192

Insertion in guipure d art 521

Insertion in guipure d'art 526

Insertion in guipure d'art 528

Insertion in guipure d'art 539

Insertion in guipure d'art 548

Insertion in guipure d'art 558

Insertion in guipure d'art 559

Insertions in guipure d'art 558 to 563

Insertions in tatting 2

Insertion in tatting 7

Insertion in tatting 11

Insertion in tatting 14

Insertion in tatting 24

Insertion in tatting 31

Insertion in tatting 32

Insertion in tatting and crochet 41

Insertion in tatting and crochet 43

Insertion in tatting and lace stitch 23

Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries 11

Insertion, knitted 340

Insertion, wide, tatting 10

Insertion, wide, tatting 14

Insertion, wide, tatting 43

Insertion, worked in tatting 10

INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, p. 559.

Berlin work, borders in 592 to 594 Berlin stitches

Common cross stitch 577

Damask stitch 581

Leviathan stitch 583, 584

Leviathan double stitch 585

Long cross stitch 578, 579

Plaited stitch 590

Plush stitch 591

Raised or velvet stitch 589

Rep stitch 582

Slanting cross stitch 580

Slanting Gobelin stitch 587

Straight Gobelin stitch 588

Tent stitch 586

INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET P.185 Crochet hook, 185. Foundation chain, double 217 Foundation chain plain 216 Foundation chain, purl 218 Spots, raised 232 Spots, hollow 233 Spots, open work 234

INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY, p.83

Bead partly covered 103

Blossom in satin stitch 101, 102

Bluebell 113

Bluebell, inner part 114

Bluebell, part of 116

Borders 118, 119

Ear of corn 112

Flower 115

Flower in satin stitch 107

Flower appliquéd on net 117

Heartsease110

Initials 123 to 130

Insertions 120 to 122

Leaf 94

Leaf, half of 99

Leaf, centre of 100

Leaf in raised satin stitch 90, 91

Leaf, raised 92, 93

Leaf, raised 95

Raised embroidered leaf 98

Raised flower 111

Raised leaf 96

Raised leaf 97

Raised satin stitch leaf 90, 91

Rose in satin stitch 108

Rose, petal for 109

Star 106

Star in point de reprise 105

Star in satin stitch 104 STITCH, EMBROIDERY.

Stitch, back 70

Stitch, button and eyelet holes 85, 87

Stitch, button-hole scallop 82 to85

Stitch, double overcast 67

Stitch, knotted 7374, 75

Stitch, ladder 8081

Stitch, overcast 68

Stitch, point croisé 71, 72

Stitch, point de minute 79

Stitch, point de plume 78

Stitch, satin raised 76, 77

Stitch, scallop 66

Stitch, shaded button-hole 88, 89

Stitch, slanting overcast 69

INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, p.503. INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING.

Joining the work, p.v.

Pin, tatting, p.ii.

Shuttles, tatting, p.i, p.iii.

The way to hold the hands, p.iii

The way to make a loop in tatting, p.iv

The way to make a purl, p.v

The way to make a stitch in tatting, p.iv

JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, 567

Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566

KEY-BAG, embroidered, 182

Key-bag, embroidered, 183

Knee-cap, knitted, 322

Knife-basket, embroidered, 159

Knife-basket, embroidered, 160

Knitted antimacassar, 320

Knitted baby's boot, 326

Knitted bodice, 324, 325

Knitted border, 321

Knitted border for bed-quilt, 327

Knitted braces, 328

Knitted comforters, pattern for, 336

Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313

Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342

Knitted curtains, patterns for, 339

Knitted d'oyley, 337

Knitted insertion, 340

Knitted knee-cap, 322

Knitted neckerchief, 323

Knitted pattern, 345

Knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332

Knitted purse, lady's, 317

Knitted quilt, 328

Knitted shawl, 346 to 348

Knitted sleeping sock, 314

Knitted sock for a child, 312

Knitted table-cover, 333, 334

Knitted veil, 330, 331

Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p.368

Knitting gauge, 287

Knitting, looped, 335

Knitting, materials required for, 287

Knitting needles, 287

KNITTING ON, 287

Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319 KNITTING STITCHES.

Brioche stitch, 301

Casting off, 295

Casting on, 288

Decreasing, 293

Increasing, 292

Knitting on, 289

Knotted stitch, 299

Looped knitting, 335

Moss borders, 300

Peacock's tail pattern, 297

Picking up stitches, 296

Plain knitting, 290

Purling, 291

Round knitting, 294

Spiral stitch, 298

Knitting stitch for comforters, &c., 32

LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), 423

(Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), 422

Lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537

Lace border in guipure d'art, 522

Lace, crochet, 251

Lace, crochet, 261

Lace, Dalecarlian, 419

Lace, deep, in tatting, 27

Lace edging in tatting, 3

Lace edging in tatting, 4

Lace, Honiton guipure, 424

Lace insertion, embroidered, 207

Lace in tatting and crochet, 40

Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), 421

Lace, netted, 309

Lace, netted, open, 310

Lace, old Mechlin, 420

LACE POINT.

Braid, placing the, 442

Braids, 426 to 431

Cords, p. 453

Edgings, 474 to 479

General directions for working, p. 453p. 454

Materials required, p. 451

Modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473

Scissors for, 425

Threads, sizes of, p. 500

Lace, tatted, 26

Lace, tatted, 27

Lady's embroidered purse, 157

Lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17

Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, 205

Linen collar embroidered, 193

Linen collar embroidered, 194

Linen tatting-bag, 46

Linen bag for tatting cotton, 30

Looped knitting, 335

MATERIALS required fur knitting, 287

Materials required for netting.302

Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), 421

Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198

Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199

Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58

Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 210

Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 211

Medallion, tatting, 58

Mignardise and tatting, 29 MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY.

Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353

Alphabet, floral embroidery, 361

Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356

Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352

Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357

Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359

Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351

Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355

Alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354

Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349

Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350

Alphabet, white, embroidery, 358

Initials in embroidery, 366 to 417

Monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417

Names in embroidery, 362 to 418

Sampler in embroidery, 360

Muslin cravat, embroidered, 153

Neckerchief, knitted, 323

Needle and mesh for netting, 302

Needles, knitting, 287

Netted fichu, 315, 316

Netted lace, 309

Netted nightcaps, 343, 344

Netted open lace, 310

Netted shell border, 311

Netting, 302

Netting, 303 NETTING STITCHES.

Diamond, 306

English, 308

Bound, 305, 307

Square, 304

Netting, materials required for, 302

Netting needle and mesh, 302

Nightcaps, netted, 343, 344

Old Mechlin lace, 420

ON KNITTING, 287

Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, 568

Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256

Pattern for a couvrette in appliqué, 213 to 215

Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 135

Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 137

Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 184

Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 185

Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196

Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 133

Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 139

Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201

Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203

Pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177

Pattern for embroidered needlebook, 166

Pattern for embroidered needlebook, 167

Pattern for knitted comforters, 336

Pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313

Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144

Patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19

Pattern, knitted, 345

PATTERNS, POINT LACE.

Alphabet, 502

Alphabet, description of, 500 to 502

Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494

Borders, 482, 483

Collars, 493 496

Cravat end, 487

Design for point lace collar, lappets, &c., 490

Dress trimming, 492

Edgings, 488, 489

Handkerchief border, 485

Insertion (Limoges), 484

Lappet, 490

Lappet, 497

Letter A in point lace, 500, 501

Medallion, 481

Oval for cravats, 491

Star, 480

Toilet cushion centre, 486

Wheels, close English, 495

Penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187

POINT LACE

Braid, placing the, 442

Braids, 426 to 431

Cords, p. 453

Edgings, 474 to 479

General directions for working, 453, 454

Materials required, p. 451

Modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473

Scissors for, 425

Threads, sizes of, p. 500

POINT LACE BARS

D'Alençon, 463 Point d'Angleterre, 467

Point de Venise, edged, 468

Point de Venise, dotted, 469

Raleigh, 471, 472

Sorrento, 461, 462

Sorrento, dotted, 469

Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466

POINT LACE EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS

Antwerp, 479

Point d'Angleterre, 477

Point do Bruxelles, 474

Point d'Espagne, 478

Point de Venise, 476

Sorrento, 475

POINT LACE PATTERNS

Alphabet, 502

Alphabet, description of, 500, 502

Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494

Borders, 482, 483

Collars, 493, 496

Cravat end, 487

Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &c., 490

Dress trimming, 492

Edgings, 488, 489

Handkerchief border, 485

Insertion (Limoges), 484

Lappet, 490

Lappet, 497

Letter A in point lace, 500, 501

Medallion, 481

Oval for cravats, 491

Star, 480

Toilet cushion centre, 486

Wheels, close English, 495 POINT LACE STITCHES

Brussels lace, 433, 434

Escalier lace, 454

Mechlin lace, 453

Point d'Angleterre, 444

Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, 445

Point d'Anvers, 498

Point d'Alençon, 442

Point d'Alençon, 443

Point Brabançon, 449

Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434

Point de Cordova, 447

Point d'Espagne, 437

Point d'Espagne; close, 438

Point d' Espagne, treble, 439

Point de fillet, 450

Point de fillet and point reprise, 451

Point de Grecque, 440, 499

Point de reprise, 448

Point de tulle, 452

Point Turque, 446

Point de Valenciennes, 441

Point de Venise, 435

Point de Venise, petit, 436

Spanish point, 455 POINT LACE WHEELS AND ROSETTES

English, plain, 458

English, raised, 459

Mechlin, 453

Rosette for centres, 460

Sorrento, 456, 457

Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457

Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209

Purse, crochet sovereign, 246

Purse in crochet over rings, 348

Parse in tatting and beads, 42

Purse, knitted, 317

Quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530

Quilt, knitted, 328

Rose-leaf in embroidery, 173

Rosettes, crochet, 280, 281

Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63

Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319

Rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 526, 563

Rosette in tatting, 8

Rosette in tatting, 34

Rosette in tatting, 35

Rosette in tatting, 45

Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48

Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61

Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63

Round netting, 305, 307

SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, 154

Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569

Shawl, knitted, 348

Shell border, netted, 311

Sleeping sock, knitted, 314

Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, 208

Sock, knitted, for a child, 312

Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342

Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551

Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523

Square, guipure d'art, 531

Square, guipure d'art, 532

Square, guipure d'art, 556

Squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576

Squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536

Squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a

Squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555

Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547

Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540

Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541

Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33

Square netting, 304

Squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527

Star, crochet, 244

Stars in crochet, 247

Stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144

Stars in embroidery, 180, 181

Star in tatting, 9

STITCHES, CROCHET.

Cross stitch, 224

Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231

Double long treble stitch, 228

Double stitch, 220, 221

Long double stitch, 225

Long treble stitch, 227

Purl stitch, 236

Purl stitch, 237

Purl stitch, 238

Raised treble stitch, 235

Raised ribbed stitch, 222

Raised slanting stitch, 223

Slip stitch, 219

Treble stitch, 226

STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART.

Grounding, 533 to 536

Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510

Point d'esprit, 504

Point de feston, 506

Point de reprise, 507, 508

Point de toile, 505

Stars, 516 to 520

Wheels, 511 to 515

STITCHES, KNITTING.

Brioche stitch, 301

Casting off, 295

Casting on, 288

Decreasing, 293

Increasing, 292

Knitting on, 289

Knotted stitch, 299

Looped knitting, 335

Moss borders, 300

Peacock-tail pattern, 297

Picking up stitches, 296

Plain, 290

Purling, 291

Round knitting, 294

Spiral stitch, 298

STITCHES, NETTING.

Diamond, 306

English, 308

Round, 305, 307

Square, 304

STITCHES, POINT LACE.

Brussels lace, 433, 434

Escalier lace, 454

Mechlin lace, 453

Point d'Alençon, 442

Point d'Alençon, 443

Point d'Angleterre, 444

Point d'Angleterre, enlarged,

Point d'Anvers, 498

Point Brabançon, 449

Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434

Point de Cordova, 447

Point d'Espagne, 437

Point d'Espagne, close, 438

Point d'Espagne, treble, 439

Point de fillet, 450

Point de fillet and point reprise, 451

Point de Grecque, 440, 499

Point de reprise, 448

Point de tulle, 452

Point Turque, 446

Point de Valenciennes, 441

Point de Venise, 435

Point de Venise, petit, 436

Spanish point, 355

TABLE-COVER, knitted, 333, 334

Table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153

Table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363

Tatting and beads, purse in, 42

Tatting and crochet, border in, 22

Tatting and crochet, border in, 52

Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41

Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43

Tatting and crochet, lace in, 40

Tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28

Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64

Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48

Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61

Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63

Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23

Tatting and mignardise, 29

Tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50

Tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17

Tatting, antimacassar in, 65

Tatting-bag, linen, 46

Tatting, border, 47

Tatting, border for cap in. 6

Tatting, border in crochet and, 15

Tatting, border in crochet and, 22

Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6

Tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44

Tatting, border, with beads, 13

Tatting, cap-crown in, 37

Tatting, cap in, 38, 39

Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 21

Tatting, circle in, 12

Tatting, circle in, 21

Tatting, circle in, 57

Tatting, collar in, 55

Tatting, collar in, 56

Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1

Tatting-cotton, p. 82

Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30

Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25

Tatting, cravat-end in, 60

Tatting, cravat-end in, 62

Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51

Tatting, cravat in, 50

Tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52

Tatting, deep lace in, 27

Tatting, diamond in, 20

Tatting, diamond in. 36

Tatting, diamond in, 53

Tatting, diamond in, 59

Tatting, diamond, for collars, &c., 20

Tatting, insertion, 27

Tatting, insertion, 11

Tatting, insertion, 14

Tatting, insertion, 24

Tatting, insertion, 31

Tatting, insertion, 32

Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11

Tatting, insertion worked in, 10

TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.

Joining the work, p. v

Pin, tatting, p. ii

Shuttles, tatting, p. i, p.iii

The way to hold the hands, p. iii

The way to make aloop in tatting, p. iv

The way to make a purl, p. v

The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv

Tatting, lace, 26

Tatting, lace, 27

Tatting, lace edging in, 3

Tatting, lace edging in, 4

Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49

Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54

Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58

Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51

Tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19

Tatting, rosette in, 8

Tatting, rosette in, 34

Tatting, rosette in, 35

Tatting, rosette in, 45

Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33

Tatting, star in, 9

Tatting, trimming for collar in, 49

Tatting, trimming for collar in, 54

Tatting, wide insertion in, 10

Tatting, wide insertion in, 14

Tatting, wide insertion in, 43

Tatting, with beads, border in, 13,

Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279

Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163

Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164

Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173

Travelling-bag in embroidery, 168

Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers worked in applique and velvet ribbon, 282

Trimming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286

Trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170

VEIL, knitted, 330, 331

Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17

Veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19

Venetian border in embroidery, 206

WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, 191

What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196

WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE.

English plain, 458

English raised, 459

Mechlin, 453

Rosette for centres, 460

Sorrento, 456, 458

Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457

Wing of bird in embroidery, 172

Work-bag in embroidery, 200

Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545

Work-basket in straw and silk crochet work, 272, 273

Work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572

Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148

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