ILLUSTRATIONS

Running the Rapids of the Ratama Frontispiece

PAGE

Announced that a person, a somebody, was awaiting me below 13

Pointed scornfully to the outside 15

Agamemnon 18

Those who refused to pay were thrown into the chicken coop 35

When the end lid was taken off the bodies of eight dead Chinamen were taken out 37

A deserted brigantine at anchor dipped slowly with the long Pacific swells 42

What the diplomat said was direct and voluble 49

A wide dusty canal which in the intervals between showers serves as a market (facing page) 50

Close resemblance to an army of drunken bugs 52

Every day our winches whirred and clattered off some dusty, sand-blown port (facing page) 54

Lima, a delightful city of contrasts 58

An Arequipa carrier 78

In Arequipa, the city of churches (facing page) 80

Hardly a day without its Saint’s fiesta 83

An Andean touring car 85

In Pizarro’s day it was probably the same—costume, craft, and barter (facing page) 100

Haggled with arrieros over pack mules 104

Prisoners along the trail up from La Paz (facing page) 106

Aymará driver of pack llamas 111

Members of a gang of prisoners 112

The guard for the road menders 114

Rodriguez and his Cholo helpers tightened the rawhide cinches and replaced the packs 116

Aymará herders played their weird flutes 123

A few streets were still plainly marked, though the village has been dead these many centuries (facing page) 128

Blizzards blowing from the Andean passes 133

Soldering the food in tin cans 138

Scattered in hysterical flight up and down the precipitous slope 141

Skirted the base of an unbroken cliff 142

Toll gate in Mapiri 145

An Andean mountaineer 146

There loomed the big mound of stones with a twig cross on top (facing page) 148

Slowly the rafts sank under the weight 172

The shrewish, leather-skinned Indian wife 174

There were, according to the Lecco standards, no “bad places” yet 179

Leccos lowering the callapo through shallows 181

Lecco of the twig raft 182

These Leccos are among the finest Indians 184

Napoleon, a Lecco chief 188

A Lecco type 189

We seemed to move with intolerable slowness 203

But it is those parts of the river that the Leccos fairly love 209

A rubber picker 211

On a rope a trolley worked back and forth from which was suspended a tiny platform 258

Never was there such a ride—not even in the Rapids of the Ratama (facing page) 264

The Tacana brides, adjusted for themselves comfortable niches in the cargo 314

At the tiller presided a huge Tacana 316

Never was such an exhibition in the history of firearms 319

But it was monkey that furnished them with the greatest delicacy 323

Often we pass a little shelter of palm leaves 326

Night camp on the Rio Beni on the way out (facing page) 328

It was only the shack of a lonely rubber picker 330

In the thin blue smoke, it at once turned a pale yellow 332

Justice is administered according to the standards of his submissive domain 333

The bolachas of rubber are threaded on long ropes 348

Dragging a batalon around the portage of the Madeira Falls 351

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