CONTENTS.

BOOK I.—THE COAST. CHAPTER I.—BORDEAUX.—ROY AN...................003 “ II.—LES LANDES.—BAYONNE..............012 “ III.—BIARRITZ.—SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ.....035 BOOK II.—THE VALLEY OF OSSAU. CHAPTER I. —DAX.—OR THEZ.....................057 “ II.—PAU.............................085 “ III.—EAUX-BONNES...................117 “ IV.—LANDSCAPES.....................138 “ V.—EAUX-CHAUDES...................169 “ VI.—THE INHABITANTS.................186 BOOK III.—THE VALLEY OF LUZ. CHAPTER I.—ON THE WAY TO LUZ.................225 “ II.—LUZ..............................250 “ III.—SAINT-SAUVEUR.—BAREGES.........266 “ IV.—CAUTERE..........................290 “ V.—SAINT-SATIN.......................315 “ VI.—GAVARNIE.........................326 “ VII.—THE BERGONZ.—THE PIC DU MIDI...352 “ VIII.—PLANTS AND ANIMALS.............367 BOOK. IV.—BAGNÈRES AND LUCHON. CHAPTER I.—FROM LUZ TO BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE...389 “ II.—BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE..............412 “ III.—THE PEOPLE......................420 “ IV—THE ROAD TO BAGNÈRES-DE-LUCHON....468 “ V—LUCHON.............................485 “ VI.—TOULOUSE.........................509

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE PINES.....................................003 THE RIVER AFTER A STORM.......................004 THE PINES NEAR ROYAN..........................007 THE BROAD RIVER...............................009 BORDEAUX......................................010 TAIL-PIECE....................................011 LES LANDES....................................012 LES LANDES (SECOND VIEW)......................014 TAIL-PIECE....................................016 A STREET IN BAYONNE...........................018 BAYONNE HARBOR................................019 PÉ DE PUYANE..................................022 THE BURNING CASTLE............................025 HEAD-PIECE....................................035 THE PIERCED ROCK..............................036 TAIL-PIECE....................................039 THE VILLA EUGENIE.............................040 CLIFFS NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ.................042 COAST NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ..................045 TAIL-PIECE....................................046 LOUIS XIV. AND ANNE OF AUSTRIA................047 THE POLITENESS OF TO-DAY......................048 THE POLITENESS OF OTHER DAYS..................049 “JE VOUS LE RENDS.”...........................053 A SPLENDID CREATION...........................054 DAX...........................................057 CASTLE OF ORTHEZ..............................061 FROISSART.....................................062 “THAT STOUT CORNIFIC DOCTOR”..................066 COUNT DE FOIX AT SUPPER.......................068 THE COUNT DE FOIX’S HOSPITALITY...............071 A FRENCH “CONDUCTOR”..........................072 “FOR HEAVEN’S SAKE DO NOT KILL GASTON”........074 GASTON IN THE TOWER OF ORTHEZ.................076 COUNT DE FOIX.................................077 TAILPIECE.....................................078 CHAPTER-HEADING...............................079 THE VALLEY OF OSSAU...........................082 A DESTRUCTION OF SENTIMENT....................084 AVENUE OF THE CHATEAU AT PAU..................085 ARMS OF HENRY IV..............................087 COURT OF THE CHATEAU AT PAU...................088 PAU...........................................090 JEANNE D’ALBRET...............................092 A MORNING’S SPORT.............................094 IN THE STREETS Of EAUSE.......................097 SULLY.........................................100 MARGUERITE OK NAVARRE.........................104 ENTERTAINING THE LADIES.......................106 THE PARK AT PAU...............................108 PROTRACTING A REVERIE.........................109 PIC DU MIDI OSSAU.............................111 AN EXHORTATION................................113 NEAR GAN......................................114 THE VALLEY OK OSSAU...........................115 ROAD TO EAUX BONNES...........................116 THE PROMENADE.................................117 NEAR EAUX BONNES..............................118 A RAINY DAY AT EAUX BONNES....................119 TAKING THE WATERS.............................121 TAKING THE WATERS (SECOND VIEW)...............122 “MUSIC HAITI CHARMS”..........................123 A NATIVE GENIUS...............................125 DOLCE FAR NIENTE.............................126 OUR AMATEURS..................................127 THE BEECHES...................................128 THE SUMMIT OF THE GER.........................131 TAIL-PIECE....................................133 THE ART OK PLEASURE...........................134 THE “JEU DU CANARD”...........................135 PLEASURE WITHOUT THE ART......................137 “A LANDSCAPE”.................................138 EXCELSIOR.....................................139 THE VALENTIN FALLS AT DISCOO..................140 CASCADE OF THE VALENTIN.......................142 PATH TO THE GORGE OF THE SERPENT..............144 THE GAVE......................................146 A DISTANT TALE................................148 SOLITUDE......................................150 A WATER POWER.................................152 THE MIGHTY STREAM.............................155 'PAPI’........................................157 A TOO DISTANT LANDSCAPE.......................159 A VANTAGE-POINT...............................161 THE PEAKS.....................................163 ABOVE GABAS...................................166 “TO HIM WHO, IN LOVE OF NATURE”...............168 AMONG THE CLOUDS..............................169 ROUTE TO EAUX CHAUDES.........................170 ON THE ROAD TO EAUX CHAUDES...................171 “A WILD AND SUNNY NEST”.......................174 “COLD AND SAD”................................175 NEAR EAUX CHAUDES.............................177 “EGYPT BEFORE THE COMING OF WARRIORS”.........182 SOMEBODY’S JOVE...............................185 THE INHABITANTS...............................186 FIDDLERS THREE................................187 “A SORT OF ROUNDELAY”.........................189 “THEY CLUMSILY BENT THE KNEE”.................192 “FIVE OR SIX OLD WOMEN”.......................194 THE PEAK OF THE GER...........................196 MEETING A LADY................................200 A STOCK-DEALER................................200 YOUR OBEDIENT SERVANT.........................201 DISINTERESTED HOSPITALITY.....................201 AN AMATEUR SKETCH.............................203 THE DEATH OF ROLAND...........................206 “A WELL-TO-DO PEASANT”........................207 CHIVALRIC WAR.................................209 SCIENTIFIC WAR................................209 THE BATTLE OF RONCEVAUX.......................212 “WHEN FIGHTING IS TO BE DONE”.................214 HENRY OF BEARN................................215 “AT THE HEAD OF THE ARMY”.....................217 “VERY DARING”.................................219 MLLE. DE SÉGUR................................220 GASSION’S BOB-TAIL............................222 ON THE WAY TO LUZ.............................225 A SMILING COUNTRY.............................226 “WHAT WE ALL HEARD THIS NIGHT”.-..............228 ORTHON’S TRANSFORMATION.......................234 LETTING THE DOGS LOOSE........................235 “THE RACE OF FAMILIARS AND FAIRIES”...........237 A BROODING SUPERSTITION,......................238 CHAPEL OF LESTELLE............................240 NEAR LOURDES..................................242 GORGE OF PIERREFITTE..........................243 “HEAVY CLOUDS ROSE IN THE SKY”................248 OLD HOUSE OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ..............250 RUIN OF A CHATEAU NEAR LUZ....................253 MAX GETS FROM THE DESERT AS MUCH AS HE CAN....257 THE VALLEY OF LUZ.............................259 PROGRESS......................................261 SAINT-PIERRE..................................263 “THIS HEIGHT IS A DESERT”.....................264 “NO ONE COMES”................................265 SAINT-SAUVEUR.................................267 THE GAVE AT SUNSET............................272 RUNNING WATERS................................274 “THE POPLARS RISE ONE ABOVE ANOTHER”..........275 BAREGES.......................................277 THE MILITARY HOSPITAL.........................278 TAIL-PIECE....................................279 THE FIRS......................................283 “OUT FROM THE CIVIL WARS”.....................287 “THESE OLD WASTED MOUNTAINS”..................288 MADAME DE MAINTENON...........................289 A FEW BLANDISHMENTS...........................290 THE PATIENTS OF THE OLDEN TIME................291 THE LAKE OF GAUBE.............................293 DIANA.........................................295 NEAR PONT D’ESPAGNE...........................299 STORM AT CAUTERETS............................302 VALLEY OF THE GAVE IN A STORM.................304 NEAR THE LAKE OF GAUISE.......................307 CAUTERET’S....................................311 THE FOAMING GAVE..............................313 HENRY IV AND FRANCIS I........................314 A FRESHETT IN THE MOUNTAINS..................315 “A HORRIBLE WORLD”............................316 ABBEY OF SAINT-SAVIN..........................318 CASCADE OF CERLSEY, NEAR PONT D’ESPAGNE.......320 PRAYER........................................325 ENJOYING HIE SCENERY..........................326 A MOUNTAIN FUNERAL............................328 BRIDGE AT SCIA................................330 VILLAGE OF GEDRES.............................333 CHAOS.........................................337 “THE TUMBLED ROCKS”...........................339 SIECHEUR......................................342 THE MOUNTAIN SIDE.............................343 THE FRECHE DE ROLAND..........................344 THE AMPHITHEATRE NEAR GAVARNIE................346 “THE THIRTEENTH CASCADE ON THE LEFT”..........347 THE CASCADE AS SEEN FROM THE INN..............349 RECIPROCITY...................................351 THE APPRECIATIVE..............................352 ASCENT OF THE BERGONZ.........................354 THE EAGLES....................................355 MONT PERDU....................................359 AN EARLY INHABITANT...........................362 SCENERY DURING AN ASCENT......................365 “ALLEZ DOUCEMENT; ALLEZ TOUJOURS”.............366 A STIMULATING DREAM...........................367 THE PINES.....................................369 A SHOWER IN A FOREST OF BRUSH-FIRS............373 CONTEMPLATION.................................376 A POOR DANCER.................................377 “THE ISARD DWELLS ABOVE THE BEAR”.............378 AN ARGUMENT...................................379 A HERD OF GOATS...............................381 “THE HAPPIEST ANIMAL IN CREATION”.............383 DISTINGUISHED NATIVES.........................386 IN MOUNT CAMPANA..............................389 DE BÉNAC IN EGYPT.............................390 “THEY TRAVERSED A WALL OF CLOUDS”.............395 “MORNING DAWNED”..............................396 “THE HALL WAS FULL”...........................398 “STRANGE IMAGES ROSE IN HIS BRAIN”............399 BÉNAC A HERMIT................................403 BEYOND LOURDES................................404 CITY OF TORBES................................406 MEPHISTOPHELES................................411 BAGNÈRES DE-BIGORRE...........................412 ONE OF THE FIRST PATRONS......................419 SOCIETY.......................................420 AN OLD CAMPAIGNER.............................422 A YOUNG CAMPAIGNER............................422 A MAN OF PEACE................................422 A MODEL MAN...................................423 IN DANGER.............................:.......424 VARIOUS TOURISTS..............................428 THE LAC D’OO..................................431 TOURISTS COMME IL FAUT........................434 FAMILY TOURISTS...............................435 DINING TOURISTS...............................436 LEARNED TOURISTS..............................438 A MAN OF ESPRIT...............................444 CONNOISSEURS..................................446 BEETHOVEN.....................................447 A SERENADER...................................454 A HISTORIAN...................................456 A PROFESSIONAL CHARACTER......................458 THE PLEASURES OF WINTER.......................461 A DISCUSSION WITHIN BOUNDS....................463 HEAVEN........................................464 THE SOURCE OF THINGS..........................466 GRACE AT MEAT.................................467 THE REST OF THE WEARY.........................468 AT THE HOTEL OF THE GREAT SUN.................470 NEAR LUCHON...................................473 CHAPELLE AND LACHAUMONT.......................476 VALLEY OF LUCHON..............................481 URBS IN REVRE.................................484 HEAD-PIECE....................................485 A TALENTED FAMILY.............................487 LUCHON........................................491 BAGNERES......................................493 “ALL WAS IN HARMONY”..........................495 NEAR CASTEL-VIEIL.............................497 RUINS OF CASTEL-VIEIL.........................499 THE MALADETTA.................................503 “THESE MOUNTAIN SKELETONS”....................505 “A CLEFT IN THE ETERNAL ROCK”.................507 TAIL-PIECE....................................508 HEAD-PIECE....................................509 ST. BERTRAND DE COMINGES......................510 TOULOUSE......................................512 SAINT SERININE AT TOULOUSE....................515 CHURCH OF ST. ETIENNE, TOULOUSE...............519 THE MUSEUM AT TOULOUSE........................521