Note 1 — Introduction
Reading edition
Foster Rhea Dulles, America Learns to Play, 1607-1940 (New York: D. Appleton-Century Company, 1940), p. 363.
[2] The author is indebted to Mrs. Anne W. Murray, formerly Curator in Charge of American Costume, Smithsonian Institution, for the interest she has shown throughout the research and writing of this paper. The difficulties of this work would have been greatly compounded without the benefit of her experience and encouragement.
[3] Ralph Thomas, Swimming (London: Sampson Low, Marsten & Company Limited, 1904), p. 15.
[4] Joseph Strutt, The Sports and Pastimes of the People of England (London: Chatto and Windus, 1876), pp. 151-152.
[5] Sir Thomas Elyot, The Boke Named the Governour (London, 1557), vol. 1, pp. 54-55.
[6] Thomas, op. cit. (footnote 3), p. 172.
[7] Melchisédesh Thévenot, The Art of Swimming (London: John Lever, 1789), pp. 4-5.
[8] Thomas, op. cit. (footnote 3), p. 161.
[9] Celia Fiennes, Through England on Horseback, as quoted in Iris Brooke and James Laver, English Costume from the Fourteenth through the Nineteenth Century (New York: The Macmillan Company, 1937), p. 252.
[10] George Washington, The Writings of George Washington, John C. Fitzpatrick, ed. (Washington: United States Congress, 1931), vol. 1, p. 8.
[11] John J. Moorman, The Virginia Springs (Richmond: J. W. Randolph, 1854), pp. 259-260.
[12] Ibid., p. 264.
[13] Henry Wansay, An Excursion to the United States (Salisbury: J. Easton, 1798), p. 211, as quoted in Dulles, America Learns to Play, p. 152.
[14] Fred Allan Wilson, Some Annals of Nahant (Boston: Old Corner Book Store, 1928), p. 77, as quoted in Dulles, America Learns to Play, p. 152.
[15] New York Evening Post (June 4, 1813).
[16] James Stuart, Three Years in North America (Edinburgh: Robert Cadwell, 1833), vol. 1, p. 441.
[17] J. W. and N. Orr, Orr’s Book of Swimming (New York: Burns and Baner, 1846) as quoted in Thomas, op. cit. (footnote 3), p. 270.
[18] “Life at Watering-Places—Our Newport Correspondent,” Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper (August 29, 1857), vol. 4, no. 91, p. 197.
[19] “Chit-Chat upon Philadelphia Fashions for August,” Godey’s Lady’s Book (August 1848), vol. 37, p. 119.
[20] “My First Day at Cape May,” Peterson’s Magazine (August 1856), vol. 30, no. 2, p. 91.
[21] Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper (July 26, 1856), vol. 2, no. 33, p. 102.
[22] “Summer Recreation,” Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper (June 18, 1870), vol. 30, no. 768, p. 210.
[23] Jared Sparks, The Works of Benjamin Franklin (Boston: Tappan and Whittemore, 1844), vol. I, pp. 63-64.
[24] J. Frost, The Art of Swimming (New York: P. W. Gallaudet, 1818), p. 57.
[25] Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper (August 25, 1866), vol. 22, no. 569, p. 355.
[26] Ibid. (July 29, 1871), vol. 32, no. 826, p. 322.
[27] Diary of John Crosier, 1782, as quoted in C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, Handbook of English Costume in the Eighteenth Century (London: Faber and Faber, 1957), p. 404.
[28] Loc. cit. (footnote 19).
[29] A Lady, The Workwoman’s Guide (London: Simpkin, Marshall, and Co., 1840), p. 61.
[30] Loc. cit. (footnote 29).
[31] Loc. cit. (footnote 29).
[32] Ibid., p. 68.
[33] As quoted in C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London: Faber and Faber, 1951), p. 130.
[34] “Cape May,” Godey’s Lady’s Book (December 1845), vol. 31, p. 268.
[35] “Fashions for August, Bathing Dresses,” Peterson’s Magazine (August 1856), vol. 30, p. 145.
[36] “New York Fashions,” Harper’s Bazar (August 8, 1868), vol. 1, no. 41, p. 643.
[37] Ibid. (July 10, 1869), vol. 2, no. 28, p. 435.
[38] B. Brooke, “Bathing-dress with Hat and Gloves,” Hobbies (August 1958), vol. 63, p. 90.
[39] Photograph and pattern appears in Blanch Payne, History of Costume (New York: Harper & Row, 1965), pp. 518, 583-584.
[40] “An Excursion to Long Branch,” Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper (August 22, 1857), vol. 4, no. 90, p. 182.
[41] Loc. cit. (footnote 18).
[42] “New York Fashions,” Harper’s Bazar (July 19, 1873), vol. 6, no. 29, p. 451.
[43] The term “bathing suit” as opposed to “bathing dress” came into use in the last quarter of the 19th century when the bifurcated bathing garment with a shorter skirt was widely accepted. The two terms, however, continued to be used interchangeably, with “bathing dress” appearing less frequently.
[44] “New York Fashions,” Harper’s Bazar (July 4, 1885), vol. 18, no. 27, p. 427.
[45] Ibid. (July 5, 1890), vol. 23, no. 27, p. 523.
[46] Ibid. (June 13, 1896), vol. 29, no. 24, p. 503.
[47] Ibid. (July 1910), vol. 43, no. 7, p. 552.
[48] “New York Fashions,” Harper’s Bazar (July 10, 1869), vol. 2, no. 28, p. 435.
[49] Ibid. (July 13, 1872), vol. 5, no. 28, p. 459.
[50] Ibid. (July 25, 1874), vol. 7, no. 30, p. 475.
[51] As quoted in C. Willett Cunnington, English Women’s Clothing in the 19th Century (New York: Thomas Yoseloff, 1958), p. 225.
[52] J. Parmly Paret, The Woman’s Book of Sports (New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1901), p. 74.
[53] Telephone interview with Adeline Trapp Mulhenberg, May 1966.
[54] Annette Kellerman, How to Swim (New York: George H. Doran Company, 1918), p. 47.
[55] Vogue (June 1, 1917), vol. 49, no. 11, p. 85.
[56] Ibid. (June 15, 1917), vol. 49, no. 12, p. 67.
[57] “For the Modern Mermaid,” Delineator (June 1916), vol. 38, no. 6, p. 52.
[58] Loc. cit. (footnote 54).
[59] Harper’s Bazar (June 1920), vol. 55, no. 6, p. 138.
[60] Ibid. (June 1921), 54th year, no. 2504, p. 101.
[61] “Bathing Regulations for City Beaches,” American City (May 1917), vol. 16, no. 5, p. 537.
[62] Loc. cit. (footnote 61).
[63] Jane Pride, “Pick-up,” Delineator (May 1927), vol. 110, no. 5, p. 15.
[64] Harper’s Bazar (June 1923), 56th year, no. 2528, p. 5.
[65] Delineator (June 1923), vol. 102, no. 6, p. 95.
[66] The Leisure Hours of 5,000 People; a Report of a Study of Leisure Time Activities and Desires (New York, National Recreation Assoc., 1934).
[67] Harper’s Bazaar (June 1934), 68th year, no. 2660, p. 9.
[68] Compiled from “Production of Selected Items of Knit Outerwear and Swimwear; 1960-1961,” Apparel Survey 1961 (1962), series M23A(61)-2, p. 14.