Note 13 — COMMERCE OF THE PHILIPPINES WITH NUEVA ESPAÑA

Linens (Spanish, lienzos and lencería) have always been one of the chief products of China, especially around Canton; and the term “Canton grass linen” is often used to define the particular kind of linen most commonly produced there, which very closely resembles the linen produced from flax. The European languages have always defined these Chinese textiles as “linen.” The term “elephant” must here refer to the mark or brand of a certain kind of linen goods; the Chinese are greater devotees of the “trademark” idea than perhaps any other people. The mark of a kind of goods to which they are accustomed is known today as the “chop,” and it is exceedingly difficult to induce them to try a new “chop” if the old one has established itself. “Cambayas” are cotton cloths from Cambaya. “Chitas” (more generally spelled “chites”) mean India calicoes, and sometimes chintzes. The Filipinos knew how to weave in colors, although not to figure goods (as they do not yet); and the Spaniards would be apt to designate by the words lienzos and lienzos pintados (perhaps also by elefantes) the Philippine fabrics woven from hemp and banana fibers, which have somewhat that texture, and which have stripes of red, blue, and other colors run through them more often by far than they are left plain. Strictly speaking, these are neither linens nor cottons; but they have the feeling of linen rather than of cotton. The goods thus designated probably included not only those of Philippine manufacture, but those made in India and other Eastern countries and traded in at Manila. Sayasaya was the Spanish name for a kind of Chinese silk; and I would conjecture that pitiflores meant some kind of Chinese brocade.—James A. LeRoy.

The term “Canton grass linen” mentioned above apparently means the fabrics made from the so-called “China grass” (see VOL. XXII, p. 278). Note the statement in sec. 92, post, that the lencería sent to Acapulco “are all of cotton,” evidently being made in imitation of the real linen goods; cf. the statement in Casa-Fuerte’s letter, in VOL. XLV, sec. 164. The name “chimones” in the text suggests, especially in view of its context, the Japanese garment called “kimono,” so generally adopted in America for negligé wear.—Eds. ↑