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The Chemistry of Cookery

Note 20 — Chapter XVI · THE COOKERY OF WINE.

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The following is from Knowledge of August 15, 1884. It is editorial, not mine, though I have heard these ‘Spirit Flavours’ spoken of by experts as ordinary merchandise. The Hungarian wine oil is one of them: ‘I have just obtained what is expressively known as “a wrinkle” from a wholesale price-list of a distiller which has fallen (no matter how) into my hands. That it was never intended to be seen by any mortal eyes outside of “the trade” goes without saying. In this highly instructive document I find, under the head of “Spirit Flavours,” “the attention of consumers in Australia and India” (we needn’t say anything about England) “is particularly called to these very useful and excellent flavours. One pound of either of these essences to fifty gallons of plain spirit” (let us suppose potato spirit) “will make immediately a fine brandy or old tom, &c., without the use of a still.—See Lancet report.” This is followed by a list of prices of these “flavours,” and then follows a similar one of “Wine Aromas.” A cheerful look-out all this presents, upon my word! The confiding traveller calls at his inn for some old brandy, and they make it in the bar while he is waiting. He orders a pint of claret or port, and straightway he is served with some that has been two and a half minutes in bottle! After the perusal of this price-list, I have come to the conclusion that in the case of no articles of consumption whatever is the motto Caveat emptor more needful to be attended to than in that of (so called) wines and spirits.’

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