Note 49 — (Second Pilgrimage.)
Reading edition
In the interval between 1834 and 1840, when I last visited this place, Ems has been completely metamorphosed. I could scarcely recognize it, so much has it been embellished and improved. It is now one of the prettiest spas in Germany. A line of handsome buildings, a mile in length, with a magnificent Cursaal in the centre, stretches along the Lahn, while new edifices are fast rising on the other side of the river. Beautiful promenades are formed all along this line, between the houses and the Lahn, while two bands of music play several hours in the day. The view from the highest point of the Morshutte, is very picturesque.