Note 31 — Chapter XIX

Byam, an English traveller, makes the following statement, which is copied without any endorsement of its truth:—

“On the morning of the 23d the fall of ashes became more dense, and the natural grave of man seemed to be rising from the earth instead of being dug in it. The women, with their heads covered with wet linen, to obviate the smothering effect of the falling dust, again hurried to the churches with cries and lamentations, and tried to sing canticles to their favorite saints. As a last resort, every saint in the churches of Leon, without exception, lest he should be offended, was taken from his niche and placed in the open air,—I suppose to enable him to judge from experience of the state of affairs—but still the ashes fell!

“Towards night, however, a mighty wind sprung up from the north, and the inhabitants at last gained a view of the sun’s setting rays, gilding their national volcanoes. Of course the cessation of the shower of ashes was attributed to the intercession of these saints, who doubtless wished to get under cover again, which opinion was strongly approved of by the priests, as they would certainly not be the losers by the many offerings; but during a general procession for thanks, which took place the next day, it was discovered that the paint which had been rather clumsily bestowed upon the Virgin’s face had blistered from the heat of the numerous candles burned around it, and half Leon proclaimed that she had caught the smallpox during her residence in the city, and in consequence of her anger the infliction they had just suffered was imposed upon them. Innumerable were the candles burnt before the ‘Queen of Heaven,’ and many and valuable the offerings to her priests, for the sake of propitiation,”—Wanderings, p. 37.