Note 150 — XV.

We are however in a position to furnish an extract from the note-book of an English sailor, left in charge of the yacht of an English merchant at Shanghai, who accompanied the expedition of Lord Elgin to the Pei-ho as coxswain. Notwithstanding the occasional naïve expressions made use of, it is a valuable narrative, such as may call up many strange reflections in the mind of the reader:—

"1858. May 30th.—The river Pei-ho is about 150 yards wide at its mouth, and at dead low water varies from 1 ¹⁄₂ to 4 ¹⁄₂ fathoms in depth. On the bar, which is two miles wide, the difference between the ebb and the flood is from 9 to 10 feet. Easterly winds cause the highest tides. In the interior, near Tien-Tsin, the river is from 3 to 6 fathoms deep, and from 50 to 100 fathoms wide. Countless villages stud the banks. The houses are built of clay or straw. The boys run about naked to an age of eight years. It is a very wretched population. The coolies plunge into the water after the empty bottles which are swimming about. They seem exceedingly willing to be serviceable to foreigners. At Tien-Tsin, ten and a half hours from the mouth of the river, the thermometer marks 89° Fahr. in the shade. Lord Elgin is living in a private house on shore. The interpreters live in a passenger-junk. Provisions are on the whole cheaper than at Shanghai. An immense number of natives keep crowding open-mouthed round the "barbarians" and their ship during the entire day, hundreds following us at every step. Almost all the shops are shut, through dread of the barbarians."

"4th June.—Thermometer 95°. The people very willing to supply the strangers with water, tea, &c. The natives are on the average from five to five feet three and well-proportioned. Some of them are "tremendously" fat, with huge heads. Among the entire lot I could not see one single woman. The streets are narrow, filthy, and uneven. Saw several hand-carts, which were used to convey water from the river to the village. On each barrow there could be from six to eight buckets of water. There were also plenty of mules and donkeys, but very few horses."

"June 18.—This day the Russian minister concluded his treaty. A Russian courier starts to-morrow for St. Petersburg with dispatches."

"June 26th.—At 6 P.M. to-day the treaty with England was signed. Went in procession to the town. All the shipping dressed with flags, and manned yards. The festivities went off in the Yamun. Lord Elgin sat at the middle table, with a Mandarin on each side of him. I hear their names were Wa-schu-nau and Kwei-liang. The first-named is a strong, corpulent man of about 45; the latter is much older, and seemed very much dejected; he has however just recovered from sickness, which may account for it. After the ceremonies of signing and sealing had been gone through, they all partook of refreshments provided by the Mandarin. Lord Elgin proposed a toast to the health of the Emperor of China, and to the future friendship of the two nations, which was responded to by the Mandarins. Shortly after the assembly broke up, and we all marched home to the excellent music of the flag-ship's band and the bugles of the marines. The whole affair lasted about three hours and a half. It was full moon, and a splendid night.

"June 27th.—This afternoon the treaty with the French was signed. Returned to their ships by torch-light, port-fires, &c. &c. Ki-ying, the Mandarin who assisted in bringing about the treaty, was sentenced to be decapitated, as he was blamed for opening the door to the barbarians, but he has since been pardoned."

"July 3rd.—News came from Pekin that Ki-ying has committed suicide by cutting his throat."

"July 4th.—Thermometer 96° on board, despite awnings and sprinkling the roof of the wheel-house with water!"

"July 6th.—Left Tien-Tsin. After a long, tedious, and tiresome passage of 15 days we reached Shanghai once more on 21st July, all well.

"Price of provisions at Tien-Tsin, as contracted for on 28th May, for the supply of the English fleet:—

Oxen (average weight 4 piculs, or 533 lbs.),the carcase$10

Sheep,"2

Hens,per dozen1

Geese and ducks,"2

Eggs,per thousand3

Vegetables,picul = 133 ¹⁄₂ lbs.1.50

Rice,"5

Sugar,"6

Yams,per dozen1

Pears,per hundred1

Apples,"1.50

Ice,per lb.16

"All articles to be delivered of the best quality. The prices are reckoned in American dollars. Every morning a boat was sent off to the Coromandel, on board which the purchases took place."