Note footnotes — Front matter

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Hallam.—Europe during the Middle Ages.

[2] The causeway that connects the city of Cadiz with the Isla de Leon is said to be a fragment of a work undertaken by Hercules; the castle of Santi Petri (built on a rocky island about five miles to the east of the city) to be constructed from the ruins of a temple built by that celebrated hero, and in which his bones were deposited.—Traces of this temple may be seen at low water, near the mouth of the San Pedro river.

[3] That of Cadiz is literally a ruin.

[4] The Torre del Oro, in which the precious metals brought from Mexico were formerly deposited.

[5] The Lonja was built (as the word in fact implies) for an exchange, but, from the fallen state of Spanish commerce, it is now used as a depôt for the American Archives.

[6] The Province of Andalusia comprises, strictly speaking, only the three kingdoms of Seville, Cordoba, and Jaen; but that of Granada is generally included by modern Geographers.

[7] The kingdom of Granada was founded by Mohammed Abou Said, of the family of Alhamares, A.D. 1236.

[8] The Vale of Granada is, par excellence, termed La Vega. Vega signifies a plain.

[9] He who has not seen Granada—has seen nothing.

[10] Cosas de España! is a common mode of expressing the uncertainty of every thing connected with Spain. “Affairs of Spain.”

[11] Far be it from me to disparage the information or undervalue the exertions of this most estimable lady, to turn the precious time of my all-seeing countrymen to the best account: on the contrary, I can with perfect truth and from much personal experience say, that I never met with a better General Itinerary than that she has given to the public: and though, as regards Spain, the amount of information is scanty, yet it is nevertheless far more correct than that contained in works I have met with, devoted exclusively to the description of that country.

[12] There are tastes which deserve a stick.

[13] A mountain road.

[14] It may be as well, ere I start on my travels, to explain that there are three words in Spanish by which houses of entertainment are designated, exclusive of Parador, which may be considered a generic term, implying a place to stop at.—The first in rank is the Fonda, whereat travellers are furnished with board and lodging, but which does not extend its accommodation to horses. Next comes the Posada, which accommodates man and beast, but does not always profess to supply nourishment to either.—The Venta is a kind of roadside public house, where bad accommodation, and whatever else the place contains, may be had for money.

[15] A muleteer.

[16] Olla—an earthenware vessel. The well known cognominal mess is so called from being cooked therein.

[17] Fill himself with gazpachos.

[18] The word tar signifies also a ridge either of a house or mountain, and might with great propriety have been applied to the strongly-marked outline of the rock of Gibraltar as compared with the mountains in the neighbourhood.

[19] See Note A in the Appendix.

[20] Peculiar Spanish cap.

[21] The original Spanish is given in the Appendix B.

[22] A Year in Spain, by a young American.

[23] Young American.

[24] The Place—the name, par excellence, by which the Spaniards distinguish Gibraltar.

[25] Mountaineers.

[26] “We are all corrupt.” Such were the words of Merino Guerra, at his parting interview with the late Sir George Don at Gibraltar, on proceeding—an exile—to South America.

[27] Napoleon certainly succeeded in making his Satraps honest. In his latter days, Massena would not have dared to repeat the witty reply made to the First Consul before all the Republican Generals, on his accusing him of being “un voleur.” “Oui, mon General, je suis un voleur, tu es un voleur, il est un voleur—nous sommes des voleurs, vous êtes des voleurs, ils sont tous des voleurs.”

[28] “El Presidente e Individuos de la Junta de Sanidad de la Ciudad de Gibraltar, que por la material pérdida de su plaza reside en esta de San Roque de su Campo, &c.”—Such was the heading of the Bill of health, with which I travelled when last in Spain.

[29] The punishment of death by strangulation is so called, from the short stick, by turning which an iron collar, that goes round the criminal’s neck, is brought so tight as to cause instant death.

[30] The usual complimentary mode of expression amongst Spaniards, which has no more meaning than the “Obedient humble Servant” at the bottom of an English letter.

[31] He had fallen in with Capt. Tupper of the 23d Fuzileers (with whom he was well acquainted) on his way to Algeciras, who had accompanied him to San Roque. Poor Tupper! led away by a somewhat quixotic love of strife, he was persuaded in an unlucky moment to throw up his company in one of the first regiments in the British service, to become the Colonel of a regiment of adventurers, and was killed whilst gallantly leading on his men at the first attack on Hernani of fatal memory.

[32] A Spanish pillared dollar.

[33] Blue blood.

[34] The term Tertulia was originally applied to an assembly of Literati, which met to discuss the opinions held by Tertulian, and even to this day those who attend these, now festive, meetings, are called Tertulianos.

The following lines contain a biting satire on the Tertulians of the olden time, (for they can hardly be applied to those of the present) and might perhaps not inaptly be addressed to other self-appointed literary judges in various parts of the world.

which may be thus freely translated.—Thirsting, the Tertulians arrive at Aganippe’s fountain; infallible judges!—They rinse their mouths, but drink not.

[35] Lit:—a sigh—a kind of puff made principally of sugar, which dissolves immediately on being dipped in water.

[36] An open court. Most Spanish houses are built so as to enclose a court or garden—which in summer is much used by the family, being protected from the sun by a canvass awning.

[37] Widow of Sir Emanuel Viale—Roman Consul in Gibraltar.

[38] 1st Book of Kings, ch. 10. v. 22. See Note C in Appendix.

[39] According to Strabo, however, the original founder of this city was Hercules, from whom it received the name of Heraclea.

[40] Pieces of Artillery.

[41] Large game.

[42] The Spanish term for a shooting party, where beaters are employed to drive the game.

[43] This must not be confounded with the more celebrated Genil.

[44] Aqui se vende buen vino—Here good wine is sold.

[45] Posadero—keeper of a Posada—Innkeeper.

[46] Spaniards never say the Spanish grammar, the Spanish tongue, &c.—but La Gramatica Castellana—La Lingua Castellana, &c.

[47] With every convenience.

[48] Little sister.

[49] Strictly speaking, Knights, but applied to all gentry.

[50] Parlour.

[51] Literally translated—people of hair, but here evidently meaning people of substance.

[52] Infant God.

[53] A hot Gaspacho, which consists of the same materials as the Gazpacho fresco, but, when an evening meal, is usually heated at the fire.

[54] Thieves.

[55] Chief magistrate, where there is no Corregidor.

[56] One does not depart a point from the truth.—Don Quijote.

[57] Fowling-piece.

[58] Black pudding.

[59] God assists him who rises early.

[60] A little charity, for the love of God.

[61] Quite correct.

[62] God go with you.

[63] Custom-house officer.

[64] There are various league measures in Spain.—1st. The Legua geografica, of which there are 17½ in a degree of the meridian; 2ndly, the Legua de Marina, or of “an hour’s journey;” and 3rdly, the Legua legal. Of the two last, a degree contains 20 and 26½ respectively. The leagues on the post-roads of Andalusia must be calculated at the second of these measures; that is, at three British statute miles, and 807 yards each: but on the cross roads the measurement depends upon whether the leagues are specified as being largas, cortas, or regulares, which may be computed at 5, 3, and 4 miles respectively, whilst that of “una hora” (an hour) may be reckoned like a post league, at 3½ very nearly.

[65] Friar’s rock.

[66] Here, brother Sancho, we may thrust our hands (arms?) up to the elbows in what are called adventures.

[67] So it is said.

[68] Publican.

[69] Off!—Jesus! Maria! Joseph!—my barley! my hemp! every thing will be destroyed!

[70] Little market.

[71] On this subject see further at Chapter XV., vol. II.

[72] Gibraltar was recaptured from the Spaniards by Abou Melic, the year following his arrival in Spain; and he assumed the title of King of Ronda, Algeciras, and Gibraltar.—He fell at the battle of Arcos, where his army was completely routed by that of Alphonso the Eleventh, commanded by the Grand Master of Calatrava, A.D. 1339.

[73] And, in the course of time, the Hisna trimming (Randa) has been torn off, and the place called Ronda.

[74] Gentry—from Hidalgo (Higo de algo). Son of Somebody.

[75] A.D. 1735. Part of this bold arch is yet visible.

[76] Ficus indicus.

[77] A body corporate of the nobility, whose province is chiefly to encourage the breed of horses.—The present male competitor for the crown of Spain was Grand Master of the R. Maestranza of Ronda, during the lifetime of Ferdinand VII.

[78] It was no unusual thing to send Regiments, that were very much in arrears of pay, to garrison the lines in front of Gibraltar; and so well was the reason of their being sent there understood, that sometimes they would take the settlement of accounts into their own hands. I recollect the Regiment of La Princesa refusing—Officers and Men—to embark for Ceuta, because they had not been allowed to remain long enough before Gibraltar to pay themselves. The regiment was permitted to remain three months longer, and at the expiration of that time embarked perfectly satisfied: a rare instance of moderation.

[79] A bushel nearly.

[80] A real vellon is equal to 2½ pence.

[81] At Ronda even an Octogenarian is a Chicken.

[82] May you die at Ronda, bearing pig-skins.

[83] Well planted.

[84] The Greek peasant may also perhaps be excepted.

[85] The word Majo originally signified Bravo, or Bully, but is now applied to such as court distinction by an extravagant style of dress. It is almost confined to the South of Spain.

[86] Haca—a Pony—though the term is applied to horses of all sorts. Our word hack is evidently derived therefrom, and Hackney from Hacanea, the diminutive of Haca.

[87] To a rogue, a rogue and a half.

[88] There is no vessel to measure tastes, nor scales, by which they can be tried.

[89] The public walk of every Spanish town is so called.—The word is derived from Alamo, a poplar.

[90] A small silver coin.

[91] Revoltingly as this exclamation from a lady’s mouth would sound to “ears polite” in England, yet it is in common use, even in the first circle of Spanish Society. The different manner of pronouncing the J, making it Hèsus, mitigates in some degree the disgust with which it cannot but be heard by Englishmen: the word appearing to have a different import, as it were, until the ear becomes accustomed to its use. The vulgarisms of one nation are often thus passed over by another,—most fortunately in some instances,—for with married couples it frequently happens this “ignorance is bliss.”

[92] Literally—Courses.

[93] Bull-fighters.

[94] An Amateur.

[95] Literally, Jester.—The term has probably been applied to the bull-fighter’s assistant, from the part he acts in drawing the animal’s attention.

[96] A long club stick, with which the shepherds and others keep their flocks in order, and bring to the Bull-fights to signify their impatience and displeasure, by striking it against the wood-work.

[97] Acenipo, according to Ptolemy. The ruined city was discovered A.D. 1650, and the coins, inscriptions, and statues, that have been found there, leave no doubt of its being the Acenippo mentioned by Pliny as one of the cities of Celtica, (Lib iii.) the situation of which country had long been matter of dispute; some supposing it to have been on the banks of the Guadiana.

[98] Carter, who it is clear never visited the spot, fancied it was the Guadiaro itself that issued from the Cueva del Gato.

[99] Custom-house officers.

[100] All ashes and coal, like a fairy’s treasure.

[101] With a clear and tranquil voice.—Don Quijote.

[102] Wild olive.

[103] Los Reyes Catolicos—the title by which Ferdinand and Isabella are invariably distinguished.

[104] The Pass of the horror-struck Moor.

[105] Mountaineer.

[106] Native of Cadiz.

[107] The niche which marks the direction of Mecca.

[108] Dios guarde à usted—God preserve you.

[109] Road of partridges. Any particularly wild and stony track is so called in Spain, from such localities being the favourite resort of that bird.

[110] A train of men and beasts, from the Arabic, Kafel.

[111] The cry by which muleteers keep their animals on the move. This word is the root of the term arriero, applied generally to the drivers of beasts of burthen.

[112] A cigar, made entirely of tobacco (in the usual way), is so called by the country people, who very seldom consume “the weed” in that form.

[113] The cross of astonishment—meaning the hurried cross which a devout Romanist describes upon his person, whenever unexpectedly exposed to danger.

[114] Literally, a man of whisker—but meaning a bold fellow.

[115] Very bad people.

[116] God give you a bad Easter—desunt cætera.

[117] How droll the squint-eyed fellow is!

[118] He-goat—which, in allusion to his horns, is used as a term of reproach.

[119] Fortune always leaves a door open.

[120] A corruption of the word Arabes.

[121] River of the city.

[122] The fans mostly used are made of kid-skin, richly gilt at the back, and painted on the other side.—A Spanish belle does not hesitate to expend thirty or forty dollars on her fan, though she should have to live on Gazpacho for a month, to make up for her extravagance.

[123] De situ Orbis: Lib. 2. Cap. 6.

[124] Treasury.

[125] The name given to cigars composed of chopped tobacco rolled up in paper, the latter item furnishing by far the greater portion of the smoke.

[126] Punch and eggs.

[127] Without cares.

[128] Buffo.

[129] Literally, strong houses. They are brick forts of small dimensions, presenting, generally, a bastioned front on the land side, and a semi-circular battery, en barbette, to the sea.

[130] The village of Alcaucin, erroneously placed in Lopez’ and other maps on the road, is situated about half a mile from it, on the right hand.

[131] Woe is me, Alhama!

[132] The accounts of the founder of the kingdom of Granada differ materially.—Florez says that he was but a common ploughman, and that the surname of Alhamar was given him from his ruddy complexion.—Others, however, (and I think with greater appearance of truth,) maintain that he was a distinguished inhabitant of Arjona, of which place he made himself Lord previous to founding the kingdom of Granada, and that he belonged to the tribe of Alhamars, from Couffa, on the Red Sea.

[133] Torre de la Vela—the loftiest tower of the Alhambra.

[134] Al Hamara—the red.

[135] A small Spanish coin.

[136] This is the court of the Lions.

[137] Of most volume—meaning importance.

[138] A kind of drum, having a small hole in the parchment at one end, through which a close fitting stick is worked up and down so as to produce a noise like that made by a wheel requiring grease.

[139] The point to which Mohammedans turn when praying.

[140] Seat of the Moors.

[141] The little unfortunate, in allusion rather to the size of his person than the extent of his misfortunes.

[142] Watch Tower.

[143] The handsome.

[144] Florez—España Sagrada.

[145] From the Arabic word suk, a place of sale.

[146] Dost thou know me?

[147] The husband of this lady was at the time of which I write, as he has lately again been, Prime Minister of Spain. Though universally admitted to be a man of great talent, his views are considered too “confined” for “the circumstances of the country;” and he has each time been obliged to make way for more “stirring men.”

[148] I have already warned my readers, that in publishing the journal of my various wanderings, it did not form part of my plan to specify dates with any precision. I should perhaps state, however, that it was not on the occasion of my first visit to Granada that I saw the Marquis of Montijo, nor, indeed, do I think he had then retired from public life. But, at all events, if his so doing be considered a matter of history, it is so unimportant a one, as to excuse my here describing him eight or ten years older, and much more infirm, than he really was at the time of which I write.

[149] War to the knife.

[150] I certainly am right in calling the old lady governor, since we pray in our churches for “our most gracious queen and governor.”

[151] St. James; the patron saint of Spain.

[152] Though you dress up a monkey in silk, a monkey he remains.

[153] I speak only of the officers of the Regular army, not of the Guerrilla chieftains, who, without performing the prodigies of valour stated by themselves, often behaved most gallantly, manœuvered with great skill, and did good service to the general cause.

[154] The name of an estate granted to the Duke of Wellington.—See Chap. xiii., Vol. 2.

[155] The amount of population in Spanish towns is calculated by vecinos; the term in a literal sense meaning neighbours, but in this case implying hearths, or families. Each vecino is computed at six souls, unless they are specified as being escasos, (scanty) when five only are reckoned for each.

[156] Hirtius—de Bello Hisp.

[157] The Eton Atlas, however, places Ulia on the spot where Castrò el Rio now stands, and gives the name of Silicense to the River Guadajoz.

[158] That Spanish gentleman.

[159] A very small parlour.

[160] A common ejaculation of all Spaniards.

[161] Real Habana cigars are so called, though those made at the Royal Manufactories in Spain more properly deserve the lawful distinction.

[162] Cuidado—care! meaning be careful. The Andalusians invariably slur over, or altogether omit, the d in the final syllable, which forms the past participle of most of the Spanish verbs. I once heard of a dispute between an Irish and a Scotch soldier, touching the true pronunciation of the name, Badajos,—one maintaining that it was Bi Jadus, the other Baddyhoose. The question was finally referred to an Andaluz contrabandista in company to decide. The Spaniard, after gravely listening to both modes, declared that, of the two, Sandy’s was the nearer approach to the real Castillian, which he pronounced to be Ba’jos, Anglice Bah-hose.

[163] The smoking of a cigar.

[164] With perfect confidence—and it is astonishing and highly flattering to our national character what confidence all Spaniards place in us on a very slight acquaintance. A remarkable instance of this occurred to my friend Budgen (whose name I have once before taken the liberty of mentioning in these pages), when returning home alone one afternoon, from shooting in the Almoraima forest. A well dressed and well mounted Spaniard, who had trotted past and eyed him very hard several times, addressing some common-place observation to him on each occasion, at length, having ascertained to his satisfaction that, in spite of a half Spanish costume, he was an Englishman, reined his horse up alongside, and said he had a particular favour to ask. “It is granted, if in my power,” was the reply. “I have here, then,” added the Spaniard, “a number of doubloons,” mentioning a very considerable sum, “which I want to smuggle into La Plaza, for the purchase of various goods. Your person will not be examined by the custom-house officers at the Lines, whereas mine is sure to be. Will you, therefore, oblige me by carrying them in for me, and lodging them at the house of —— and Co.?” “Did you ever see me before,” demanded my astonished friend, “that you ask me to do this?” “No,” replied the other; “but I see you are an Englishman.” Thanking him for the compliment paid to the national character by this proof of trust, our countryman added, that he must nevertheless decline doing what was asked of him, as the confidence shown by the Spanish government in suffering Englishmen to pass into Gibraltar without examination would be badly returned by such an act. The Spaniard (fully appreciating the high sense of honour that dictated this answer) expressed a hope that he had not given offence, wished him good day, and rode forward.

[165] Scorpions.

[166] “What about Religion? stuff!” Many of my readers may suppose, that this sanguinary and summary mode of establishing a constitutional government is an original project of my own, put into the mouth of Tio Blas; but I can assure them it is word for word a translation.

[167] To strut the streets like peacocks.

[168] The Andalusian peasants usually wear a handkerchief round the head, under the sombrero, to absorb the perspiration.

[169] In England the state of the roads is such, as to enable us to dispense with an adjective signifying passable for a carriage; the Spaniards have not an equally good excuse for this deficiency in their vocabulary: I venture therefore to translate the expressive Italian word carrozzabile.

[170] Chief magistrate of a town, who is never a native of the place.

[171] The names of these places, though communicated to me in the first instance, are now withheld, at the narrator’s particular request.

[172] Something between a town and a village.

[173] Surname.

[174] In an open country.

[175] To preach in the desert.

[176] Address as you.

[177] She is now in heaven.

[178] It is a common saying amongst the Serranos, “Kill your man, and fly to Olbera for safety.”

[179] The daughter badly married than well maintained.

[180] Literally, with outstretched foot—at his ease.

[181] I can fancy some hypercritical persons quarrelling with this expression of the worthy Señor Blas; since Ceuta is not actually an island. But it is cut off from the main land by so wide a salt water ditch, that I think he was almost warranted in using the word sea-girt.

[182] Scarecrow.

[183] Band.

[184] To gain friends is to put money out to interest, and sow on irrigated soil.

[185] With closed eyes—i. e. without hesitation.

[186] I interrupted the Señor Blas here, asking him if Valencia was not an open city? “Yes, Señor Critico,” he replied, “but have not houses walls?”

[187] Holyly into the house.

[188] Conceived without sin—the invariable acknowledgment of the Ave Maria which a devout Spaniard pronounces on crossing the threshold of a house, be it even to commit murder.

[189] Raw garlic and pure wine make one travel safely.

[190] To an old dog you need not say tus tus.

[191] A nickname for Frenchmen.

[192] More wind than fire.

[193] Charcoal furnaces.

[194] Quarter.

[195] For him who sees so well, one eye is enough.

[196] Literally, do you expend tobacco?

[197] Punk made of a dried fungus that grows round the roots of the cork tree.

[198] Bomb-cigar.

[199] Literally, bulls and canes—i. e. high words.

[200] Throw that bone to another dog.

[201] A precipice before, wolves behind.

[202] Scare wolves.

[203] Strike the iron whilst it is hot.

[204] Sash—The Spanish peasants carry their money wrapped up within the folds of their wide sashes.

[205] Literally, make the fig, that is, thrust the thumb between the fore and middle fingers in sign of contempt.

[206] Give a quittance.

[207] Feet uppermost.

[208] Peculiar sailing boat.

[209] It was founded by Ferdinand and Isabella, whilst laying siege to Granada.

[210] Most Spanish houses are built in a square form, enclosing an open court, or patio. A servant “answers the door,” by raising the latch, by means of a pulley, and demanding your business from the gallery of the first floor, a plan which would be attended with considerable inconvenience in London.

[211] Arm-chair.

[212] Fire.

[213] Cat for hare.

[214] In the mouth of fame.

[215] Where envy reigns, there virtue cannot live.

The lines of Burns,

often occurred to me in the course of Señor Blas’s story.

[216] Of extracting the teeth from one who has been hanged.

[217] Old crony.

[218] Pépé, short for Josef.—Alamin, faithful.

[219] Without stoppage.

[220] To wit.

[221] An olla without bacon—an essential ingredient for its well-being.

[222] Dress worn by the herdsmen, made of sheepskins.

[223] He who neglects to take a rope may be drowned.

[224] To the deed with a good heart.

[225] Making the salaam.

[226] Literally, by who God is.

[227] Gipsy.

[228] Wild boar.

[229] The moderates were distinguished by wearing a ring—whence the term.

[230] An olla that boils long loses much.

[231] This was the general opinion amongst the Spanish liberales.

[232] “Well then”—a conjunctional expression with which, and sundry conques (with which), a Spaniard takes up and links together the different portions of a cuenta, the narration of which is generally interrupted by the necessity for lighting a fresh cigar, striking a fresh light, or getting rid of a superabundant supply of smoke. I have been purposely chary of these expressions, not to prolong a story which, even without them, many may think is somewhat tediously spun out.

[233] Which may be thus literally translated (si se ofrece algo) if any thing occurs, ( ...) a hiatus that is filled up with a shrug of the shoulders; an expansion of the hands, palms outwards, and corresponding contortion of the muscles of the cheeks; all of which, like Lord Burleigh’s shake of the head, has a wonderfully comprehensive meaning—viz., in which I can in any way serve you, (ustedes no tienen que mandar,) you have but to give me your orders.

[234] My house, my wife, my servants—every thing I possess is at your disposal.

[235] A much better, indeed a very good inn, has since been established. See chapter 2, vol. ii.

[236] Zancarron de Mahoma is a contemptuous way of speaking amongst Spaniards of the bones of the prophet, which the Mussulmans go to visit at Mecca.

[237] Court of the Orange-trees.

[238] This was previous to the present civil war.

[239] “Swallow it;” the substance of the song being, if you do not like it (the constitution), you must swallow it, dog!

[240] Thanks, my daughter, many thanks.

[241] A female dog.

[242] Jonah, ch. i., v. 3.

[243] Acts. ch. ix., v. 11.

[244] 1st Kings, ch. xxii., v. 48.

[245] 2nd Chron., ch. xx., v. 36.

[246] 1st Kings, ch. ix., v. 26., and 2nd Chron., ch. viii., v. 17 and 18.

[247] 1st Kings, ch. x., v. 22, and 2nd Chron., ch. ix., v. 21.

[248] Ezekiel, ch. xxvii., v. 12.